I awoke early, before the sun, when the rest of the city was still asleep. Stepping into the cold air outside, I was running on adrenaline and the excitement of seeing something that most people will never get close to - the DMZ. We boarded the empty subway - elated to find our pick of open seats - and settled in for the one-hour ride into Seoul. The USO (United Service Organization - a nonprofit organization that supports US troops) is located in a comfortable building full of familiar, but forgotten, amenities: American television shows, available trash cans, English language newspapers, Dr. Pepper, and most importantly - oversized recliners. Our early arrival secured us seats in the legendary chairs, and we waited patiently and cozily for our tour to depart.
Onboard the warm tour bus I was thankful for the opportunity to sit back and relax while someone more qualified did the navigating. Our guide, and the only Korean onboard, spent the first ten minutes of the one-hour drive up to the border reminding us of the history and dangers we were about to encounter. The DMZ (demilitarized zone) runs 155 miles long between North and South Korea and is 2.5 miles wide. Located within the DMZ is Freedom Village (the only populated area on the South Korean side), and Propaganda Village on the North's side. Spanning the length of the DMZ is the MDL (military demarcation line), which denotes the exact border line between the two countries. Throughout the DMZ, wildlife flourishes ironically juxtaposed with live mine fields.
"You will see North Korean soldiers, but do not gesture to them in any way. No waving, no hand signals, no talking; this is not Disney Land," said our guide. Eventually he finished his pep talk and left everyone to fall asleep along with the hypnotic sway of the bus.
Before entering the DMZ our passports were checked by American guards and we were loaded onto a military bus. For our protection and their peace of mind, we were to remain onboard the bus between stops unless otherwise directed. We passed through Camp Bonifas, where American and South Korean soldiers are stationed, and stopped at Ballinger Hall for a debriefing. An army official gave a detailed and intimidating summary of the struggles and conflict between the North and South and then handed us all documents to sign, which stated in part, "The visit to the Joint Security Area of Panmunjom will entail entry into a hostile area and possibility of inury or death as a direct result of enemy action."
Entering the DMZ requires passing through three types of barriers: a tank wall, barbed wire fence with sliding rock wall, and live mine field. These blocks protect against the entry or exit of any unwanted visitors - specifically, North Koreans. Throughout the trip we were told when and where photographs were allowed. Failure to abide by the directions meant your camera would most certainly meet an untimely death in the hands of highly trained camera-killing experts.
Our first stop was Conference Row, located directly on the MDL line (military demarcation line) that separates North Korea from South Korea within the JSA (Joint Security Area). Conference Row consists of several buildings, which are used for joint discussions between the two countries, and lookout posts for both enemies. Throughout a 24 hour period, guards stand ready to defend their respective countries. Before unloading from the bus, our guide provided us with a strict set of instructions: 1. Again, do not attempt to make contact with the North Koreans. Oftentimes they can be seen making obscene gestures to the many tour groups, but under no circumstances should a person react. 2. Do not try to defect, or cross borders. The North Koreans would probably not give you a chance to explain why you have run across into their country.
The Peace House and entrance to Conference Row. This building was originally constructed for meetings between prime ministers, but now acts as a place for non-military civilians to convene. The backside of the building sits in front of the MDL (military demarcation line) and creates a strong backdrop for the South Korean soldiers.
Before entering onto North Korean territory
A view from the back steps of the Peace House looking over to North Korea (gray building). The blue buildings straddle the North/South border and are shared between the two countries for important meetings with the UN. It is hard to see them in this picture, but North Korean soldiers are standing on guard in front of their building. The South Korean personnel, in the foreground, position their bodies halfway behind the blue buildings and don dark glasses in an attempt to intimidate their enemies. The dark green uniforms are worn only by the elite special force unit that uses Taekwondo tactics rather than firearms to overtake their attackers.
Members of the ROK branch (Republic of Korea) wear camouflage similar in color to the American soldiers they serve with. They, too, must pass an intense physical and mental aptitude test before being stationed at the DMZ.
The taller building in the background is one of a few outlook posts around the MDL border where North Koreans stand watch. It is from within these windows where North Korean soldiers can sometimes be seen making inappropriate hand gestures and signals.
After a brief explanation from our tour guide soldier about the surrounding area and possible dangers, we were escorted into a blue conference building. The small room required us to squeeze together around a large conference table lined with microphones. The microphones, which are turned on at all times, record every word that is uttered within the room and are used specifically during meetings between the UN and North Korea. The conference table provides a visual marker of the borderline below and I was cautiously thrilled to find myself standing in North Korean territory (the far end of the table).
Waiting for the tour group ahead of us to exit the conference room so we could take our turn. Notice the Korean guard on the left peeking out from behind the neighboring blue building while the guard for our building prepares to escort us inside.
One of two Korean special forces guards who escorted our group into the conference building. Because the building is shared with North Korea, entrance into it is somewhat dangerous. The guard, with clenched fists, is standing in Taekwondo's ready stance position prepared to attack.
The flags of the United Nations - precious allies for South Korea - were originally set up in stands around the room. However, North Korean soldiers found great delight in blowing their noses and spitting into the American and South Korean flags. Now, they are made of plastic, placed behind glass, and slightly more difficult to deface.
The second guard was strategically placed in front of the door that led out to North Korea's gray building. Because of my position around the table, I am literally standing on North Korean land. Although pictures of the guards were allowed, strict rules still applied: no touching and no walking behind him. I was excited, but he chose not to smile. Behind those dark glasses I'm sure I saw a hint of curiosity for the Americans and their overactive cameras.
The second part of our tour led us around the grounds of the DMZ. We stopped at several lookout posts to view the landscape of the respective countries, and learned more about the history and turmoil between them.
North Korea's landscape - unexciting except for the giant flagpole, which of course comes with a story. Several years ago, South Korea built a flag pole that stands 328 feet. In response, and unwilling to be outdone, North Korea constructed the largest flagpole in the world. It stands at an impressive 525 feet, and it's massive flag has a dry-weight of 600 pounds. North Korea's horizon is also dotted with radio wave towers, which block and scramble all incoming frequencies from surrounding countries. The citizens of North Korea are completely cut off from outside radio, Internet, and television; and are therefore uninformed about the true current conditions of the world.
The blue building sits in front of the Bridge of No Return and near the location of the historic Ax Murder incident. On the morning of August 18, 1976, two U.S. army officers were brutally murdered by North Korean soldiers while trying to trim a poplar tree that obstructed the view from their lookout post. Without the surveillance of South Korean soldiers, the KPA (Korean People's Army/ North Korea) had made numerous attempts to grab UNC personnel and drag them over the bridge into North Korean territory. Maintenance work on the poplar tree was previously agreed to by North Korean officials, but when rain postponed the original date it was pushed back to August 18. The tree trimming work carried out as planned until North Korean soldiers showed up at the scene. For 15 minutes they stood silently watching before violently attacking the American and South Korean personnel with their own tree trimming axes. The incident poured salt into the already deep wounds of South Korea, and American and ROK soldiers returned three days later determined to complete the task. In memory of the fallen officers, the tree stump was left in the ground and the base camp was renamed, Camp Bonifas.
Eventually the tree stump was removed and a monument was set up in its place. Each year, a memorial service is held at the site for Capt. Bonifas and Lt. Barrett.
The Bridge of No Return was used after the Armistice (cease fire) agreement was made in July, 1953. Prisoners captured from both countries were released and given the option to cross into whichever country they preferred. The only stipulation given was that they were never allowed to return to the other country, hence the name.
The third, and final, part of our tour was to the Third Tunnel of Aggression. Beginning in 1974 and through 1989, four underground tunnels were discovered beneath the DMZ. The tunnels, dug by North Korea, are presumed to be invasion routes into South Korea, which lead directly toward Seoul.
The third tunnel, and most dangerous, was discovered after a tip off from a North Korean defector in 1978. Located 490 feet below ground, the sloping tunnel is more advanced than its previous counterparts and spans a length of 5,200 feet. At its interception, the tunnel was only 27 miles from Seoul and large enough for about 30,000 heavily-armed North Korean troops to pass through within one hour. Once discovered, the North claimed they were simply mining for coal. However, these false claims crumbled when a search for coal came up empty. The granite walls of the tunnel had been painted black by the North Koreans to give the facade of coal - a very bizarre and calculating move.
Unfortunately, cameras were not permitted during the tunnel tour, however, several people managed to disobey. Thanks to a random, rebellious person who posted their pictures on the Internet I am able to show you what it looks like 490 feet below Korea.
Walking into the tunnel required a bright yellow hard hat; strong knees; and a height deficiency. At first cold, the extreme downward slope of the tunnel (to prevent water stagnation) required a lot of strain and soon resulted in a warm perspiration beneath my helmet. The low ceilings and tight walking space deterred visitors with claustrophobia and ridiculed those who are above average in height. Imagining the outcome of an armed guerrilla infiltration into Seoul is formidable, and the discovery of each tunnel is a symbol of South Korea's unfortunate need for constant vigilance. The possibility of more tunnels in existence is real and probable.
The history of the tense relationship between North and South Korea is shocking and heartbreaking. Along with the thousands of separated families, I look forward to an end to the war that has been taking place both physically and mentally for the past sixty years. One day, the tank walls will crumble and the barbed wire will come down merging two separate Koreas into one.
