JAPAN: Travel to Hiroshima

While leaving the apartment on Tuesday at 5:00 am for the airport, I knew we had a long day ahead of us. The quick flight to Japan was broken up by a layover in Busan, South Korea; which created an additional hassle with our bags but was well-worth the discounted price. Of course, I was stopped at every check-point and had my bags and body searched for whatever illegal substance I looked most likely to be carrying. Security was extremely interested in the cosmetics I had in my carry-on bag and requested that I empty everything out so each item could be thoroughly inspected. Apparently I had a black mark that day in the travel world, and was euphorically grateful once we landed in Tokyo—bags in hand.

"Whoa," was the first word that flew through my brain and out of my mouth as we stepped out of baggage claim and into the hustle and bustle of the Tokyo airport. Swarms of people moved quickly in every direction like angry honeybees out of a nest. Navigating the crowds turned into an understood game of chicken as people criss-crossed paths of oncoming foot traffic. After picking up the rhythm of the crowd, we joined in the mass dance in search of the Shinkansen (bullet train) ticket office to pick up our previously purchased passes.

If your travel plans for Japan include cities spread throughout the country (and you are coming from a country other than Japan itself) it is more economical to spring for the Japan Rail Pass. Similar to the Eurail Pass in Europe, the JR Pass allows you unlimited rides within a designated time period (7, 14, or 21 days). Unfortunately for those who already live in Japan, or who forgot to purchase one ahead of time, a JR Pass can only be obtained outside the country. I'm not sure the exact reasoning for this, but I assume it has everything to do with money...

Shinkansen trains are definitely a modern day marvel as they transport thousands of people to hundreds of destinations throughout the country. Known for speed (there's a reason why the nickname, bullet train, stuck in the Western world), the trains average nearly 200 mph; but have reached faster speeds during test runs. Their punctuality is equally impressive as they pull into and out of stations within mere seconds (6 seconds to be exact) of their scheduled time. As a person who loves to be on time, I fully appreciated their promptness and dependability.

Riding a train across a country provides an excellent opportunity to view the landscape as it whirs by at incredible speeds, and gain a better understanding of its culture. Japan is much greener than I ever imagined and the crispness of the tree-covered mountains was exaggerated beneath the damp dew left behind from an earlier rain shower. As low clouds touched down on the land, the reality of Japan's mystery and enchantment came alive. Unfortunately, the same alluring clouds hid from view the snow-capped peak of Mt. Fuji leaving only its expansive base visible, which was like trying to admire the rise of a skyscraper only a few feet from the front door.

Having the window-seat proved lucky during one stop along the route. While waiting for the new passengers to board the train, I was immersed in the fascinating sport of people-watching (more commonly referred to as, staring). As travelers passed by my window I took note of their clothes, hair, facial features, luggage... everything. One particular person caught my attention before the train began to pull away, and I had just enough time for the image to register in my brain and do a double-take. A sumo wrestler. Of course, his size was what initially caught my attention, which drew my gaze to his traditional dress and up to the ubiquitous bun. Without enough time to pull out my camera and immortalize the visual experience, I have focused hard to sear the image into my long-term memory. In case any of you doubt what I saw, please read the below sentences from a reliable source commonly called, Wikipedia. Yay!

On entering sumo, they are expected to grow their hair long to form a topknot, or chonmage, similar to the samurai hairstyles of the Edo Period. Furthermore they are expected to wear the chonmage and traditional Japanese dress when in public. Consequently, sumo wrestlers can be identified immediately when in public.

Six hours after departing Tokyo, we arrived in Hiroshima and headed to our hostel—2 hours later than the arrival time we gave them. Thankfully, reception was still open and we were greeted with smiles at the front door. Exhausted from our 17-hour journey, we were eager to get in our room and head straight to bed. Hana Hostel was clean and easily accessible, but its teeny-tiny layout made me wonder whether I could survive six days in Japan. Our 4-bed room was just big enough to squeeze in two sets of bunkbeds and an airplane-sized bathroom with shower. The room temperature was set at a toasty 82 degrees, which we were unable to alter; and I quickly felt my enthusiasm shrink, like a leaky balloon. But, after a cold shower in a an uncomfortably small bathroom my head hit the pillow and I was out—dreaming of geishas, sumo wrestlers, samurais, and the elusive ninja.