JAPAN: A Geisha or Not?

Sunday, August 16, 2009

Traditionally, geisha living in Gion do not refer to themselves as geisha, but rather geiko, meaning "a child/woman of the arts." Although there are far fewer geiko and maiko (geisha in training) today, it is still possible to see them as they walk to their evening appointments at the various ochaya, or tea houses. Many people have misconceptions about geisha—believing them to be prostitutes, however, that is untrue. Trained in the arts, geisha are skilled performers who dedicate their lives to the arts. Their talents are hired out by men seeking to engage themselves in fanciful flirting and artful imagination. At times, they even accompany men on special outings to temples, shrines, or gardens. The owner of our guesthouse, Yashi, explained that this is an elaborate way for men to show off their importance and fluff their feathers. When accompanied by a geisha, everyone finds you more interesting and appealing.

What I didn't know when arriving in Kyoto was that women of all ages still wear the traditional kimono when out in public. Typically, they enjoy wearing it on special occasions like traveling or while engaging in certain activities, such as sight-seeing. At first, I thought every woman in a kimono was a geisha and I snapped photos at each opportunity. Yashi explained the easiest way to differentiate between a geisha and a non-geisha: their hair. He said, sometimes geishas do not wear the traditional heavy white makeup during the day (especially in the summer), but if they are a true geisha they will always don the ubiquitous round bun.


Not a geisha:






Close, but no. I really wanted her to be the "real thing" because I was so close, but that's precisely why she wasn't. They're not this easy to photograph.


Definitely a geisha:

The two girls on the left are definitely geishas, but the third one doesn't have the full hair. Maybe she's just friends with the other two and didn't want to feel underdressed.

Here's an example of a man fluffing his feathers. She seemed to be accompanying him around this temple.


The most traditional girl we saw with kimono, hair, and white makeup.

A geisha walking to her appointment. Seriously. I didn't want to be weird and turn on the flash so the picture isn't that great, but at least I know she's there.


**Note:
I'm well aware that my interest in seeing a geisha was a little borderline "paparazzi" and I tried not to hunt them like animals. However, they're a fascinating piece of Japanese culture and probably quite used to the attention. I never chased after a girl nor did I take photographs in their face. The only potentially awkward photo experience was when I photographed the man photographing the geisha. But, I was so close and figured this was the reason he was paying her to accompany him... the more attention he received, the better. :)

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