JAPAN: Last Day

Monday, August 31, 2009

Our brief visit to Japan was nearly over and our time in Tokyo had disappeared as quickly and mysteriously as the geishas we glimpsed in Kyoto. Before making our way to the airport, we meandered the streets near our hostel in search of Senso-ji Temple, the oldest Buddhist temple in Tokyo. Hundreds of small shops guided our way up Nakamise-dori, a crowded souvenir shopping street to be avoided by the claustrophobic. At the end of the street looms the temple's Kaminarimon, or "Thunder Gate." The monstrous structure boasts an even more impressive lantern painted in reds and blacks, which suggest thunderclouds and lightning. Packed with tourists and practicing Buddhists, the temple's ornate insides were bursting at the seams. While in prayer, the hypnotic chants of monks filled the remaining space and subsequently pushed my over-stimulated mind and body outdoors. The peaceful surrounding grounds and Shinto shrines were quieter and much less animated.

On our way back to the hostel to grab our bags for the airport, we stopped for lunch at a money-machine restaurant—an authentic Japanese experience we wanted to check off the list. However, the authenticity wore thin once we realized the restaurant actually served curry instead of sushi; but everyone inside was staring at us so we deposited the money, pressed some buttons, and hoped for the best. Luckily, the food was delicious and we soon forgot the guilt we were having for not eating sushi from a machine.


Nakamise-dori—souvenir alley





Senso-ji Temple entrance gate (of course, the temple itself was under construction and covered in scaffolding).


The "Madeline" of Japan... so cute!

Outside the temple, people lit incense sticks and placed them in a giant burner. As the smoke lifted into the air, they wafted it onto their bodies in an act of purification and prayer.


The incense sticks inside the burner.

A monk and other Buddhists chanting inside the inner temple.



Some of the many smaller shrines around the temple grounds.

Octopus snacks


The "waiter" at our curry restaurant. Just put in your money and press some buttons!

A "liquor shop" on the street.... doesn't seem like a good idea.

Goodbye hostel

Goodbye Japan


JAPAN: Around Tokyo

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Although we didn't have a lot of time in Tokyo and had expended the last of our energy at the Tsukiji Fish Market that morning, we decided to get a sampling of as many areas as humanly possible. However, our bodies fought us every step of the way and we nearly crawled through the streets by the end of the day.

Akihabara

Our first stop was necessitated by the immense number of photographs I had taken so far on the trip. I was out of space on my memory card with a full day of Tokyo sites on the horizon. Lucky for me, Tokyo and electronics go hand-in-hand. With the help of our hostel staff, we found our way to Akihabara (Electric Town) and were greeted by thousands of electronically-advanced shoppers. Anything requiring a voltage can be found in Akihabara including cameras, computers, MP3 players, and eerily advanced robots. It is also a popular shopping area for Anime—Japanese Animation; which has recently received a worldwide cult-like following.


This place puts Best Buy to shame...

Loads of people waiting in line for something called, Dragon Quest IX. Notice how everyone is looking down at their portable gaming systems...

And, again with the hand-held devices. This is also the same view you get when people- watching on the subway in Korea. Everyone has something to watch or play.

On the inside of one of Tokyo's largest electronic stores sensory overload was a given.

Just before I got in trouble for taking photographs inside the store.


Shinjuku

Next, we made our way to Shinjuku—Tokyo's over-crowded commercial and administrative center. Think: office buildings. It's home to Tokyo's tallest skyscraper, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, and the busiest train station in the world—Shinjuku Station. From the top floor of the Metropolitan Government Building you can absorb a panoramic view of the city. On a clear day, it is even possible to see Mt. Fuji in the distance, however, the day we visited was not one of the lucky few.

Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building

Views from the top


I could almost fool people into believing I had actually seen Mt. Fuji in the distance if not for the yellow labels.


Harajuku

We hopped on the mind-boggling subway again and miraculously found our way to Harajuku, a major fashion capital of the world. Full of clothing stores promoting everything from goth robes and masks to Louis Vuitton purses, Harajuku is well-known for its strange Sunday traditions. Every weekend, teens from all over Tokyo hang out around the Harajuku train station dressed in various costumes and styles—Sweet Lolita, Goth Lolita, Visual kei, and Cosplay are among the popular options. Because we visited this area on Saturday, we only saw a few examples of the eccentric costumes and style options Tokyo has to offer.


View of the train station

Lines outside of stores nearly 50 people deep was a common sight.

Big, orange androgynous hair

A rainbow of Reeboks

A view of the over-crowded, visually stimulating shopping street—the perfect place for people-watching.

Groups of people—young and old—hang out in the park near the train station doing everything from playing sports to playing guitars. This group was having play practice...

...while this group relaxed to the sounds of their own ukuleles.

Apparently clothing isn't just for humans and small dogs anymore.


Examples of Harajuku Street Fashion
(from the Internet)

Sweet Lolita:
Inspired by Victorian Era clothing in pastel colors to convey innocence and a child-like image.

Goth Lolita:
Also inspired by the Victorian era, but including typical gothic characteristics including dark colors and intense makeup.

Visual Kei:
Characteristic of many Japanese musicians in the J-Rock genre (glam, punk, metal); and includes intense makeup, outrageous hairstyles, and elaborate costumes to complete a flamboyant, androgynous look.

Cosplay:
Short for "costume roleplay," Cosplay participants dress as characters within the Asian media including video games, comic books, anime, manga, and graphic novels.


Shibuya

Before fizzling out for the evening, we had to stop in Shibuya to see Tokyo's nightlife at its best. Blanketed in neon lights, restaurants, and stores; Shibuya is famous for having the busiest cross-walk in the world, which we experienced first-hand, as well as, from the second-story of Starbucks.

Waiting for the "walk" signal at the busiest crosswalk in the world!


Machines have replaced waiters in some Tokyo restaurants. Simply order your food by pressing a button, insert the money, seat yourself at the counter to wait for your food, and then enjoy!


Of course, Tokyo and Michael Jackson go hand-in-hand.


JAPAN: Tokyo's Tsukiji Fish Market

Sunday, August 23, 2009

*WARNING: The pictures and video in this blog contain images that may be disturbing to young children, mermaids, and definitely... vegetarians.


Our first day in Tokyo started at 2:30 am...

After meeting our tour guide on a surprisingly busy street corner we headed to the world's largest wholesale fish and seafood market, Tsukiji Fish Market. The market handles over 2,000 metric tons of seafood per day from tiny sardines to 660 pound tuna; and sells everything from the cheapest seaweed to the most expensive caviar. The hustle and bustle of the market was incredible and a distinct sensory overload caused me to forget that I should've still been asleep.

The market itself is divided into two sections: the inner market and the outer market. Each day, seafood is shipped to the inner market from around the world by boat, truck, and plane. The fish is auctioned off to licensed participants and, in some cases, processed in stalls onsite. The outer market is a mixture of wholesale shops peddling Japanese kitchen tools, restaurant supplies and groceries; combined with many restaurants selling the freshest sushi in the world.

A day at Tsukiji Fish Market:

3:00 am - 5:20 am The market opens with the arrival of seafood from around the world. Auction houses and wholesalers prepare the products for auction and give each item an estimated value. During this period, licensed bidders inspect the seafood and decide which fish they would like to later bid on.

5:20 am - 7:00 am The various auctions commence—everything from the smallest seafood to the largest (and most exciting) tuna catches. The licensed bidders are comprised of market stall owners and agents acting on behalf of various restaurants or retailers.

7:00 am - 1:00 pm The purchased fish is either loaded onto trucks and shipped to the next destination, or taken on carts to the various rented stalls within the market. In the stalls, shop owners cut and prepare their fish using elaborate saws, knives, and picks.

1:00 pm The market is closed for cleaning and everyone returns home before waking up early the next morning to repeat the day's events.


The Inner Market

Delivery at 3:00 am


Bidders inspecting the small fish before the auction








Fugu, or pufferfish, are very poisonous and can be deadly if not prepared properly.

Small fish auction

After the auction, carefully preparing his winnings.


Unloading the highly coveted blue fin tuna

Frozen tuna

Before the auction, bidders inspect and choose their favorite.

Fresh tuna

Bidders waiting around for the exciting tuna auction, which can get bids up to $10,000/fish!

Mr. Frugasan, a top Tokyo sushi chef, and his $4,000 tuna.

Post-preparation

After the excitement ended and the sun came up, we were finally able to appreciate the inner market's massiveness.

Our helpful, informative, and...precious tour guide.


The Outer Market


Japanese knives you can't get from an infomercial.