A Beautifully Atypical Day

One of my favorite experiences on the trip occurred in a cave.

One minute we're visiting a few Bedouins and joking (in Arabic) about the love-life of cats while watching satellite TV; and the next we're being serenaded to a traditional Bedouin tune by the same men who are surprisingly serious about their on-screen appearances.

The only thing typical about this day was the hospitality and kindness of the Bedouin men... and the fact that many caves have satellite TV.

The Bedouin people are a "predominately desert dwelling Arab ethnic group previously nomadic, currently mostly settled."

Shobak Castle

Although not as popular and well-preserved as Kerak Castle, we spent a couple more hours exploring the ruins of Shobak Castle because we could... it wasn't closed yet. The Crusader castle, built in 1115, stands high above the barren land below creating a feeling of isolation lacking at Kerak. After successfully warding off attacks, it finally fell under siege in 1189.

Finding a geocache hidden in the rubble

Arabic graffiti carved into the wall

It was extremely windy high atop the hill!

Looking a little National Geographic

Islamic Call To Prayer

The Islamic adhan, or call to prayer, is recited in Arabic 5 times each day by the muezzin who are chosen by the mosque because of their good character, voice, and skills. The main purpose of the call to prayer is to inform everyone, both Muslim believers and non-believers, of Islam's main beliefs and spiritual ideology. Upon hearing the call, Muslims are expected to stop what they are doing and carry out their prayers in a mosque or prayer room. Only men may enter mosques, but prayer rooms separated by men and women can be found in various establishments including airports, restaurants, and large stores.

Because the call to prayer is recited over loud speakers from the minaret of every mosque—and there are dozens of mosques around each corner—the enchanting sound appears to rise above the city and swirl hypnotically through the air before dipping down into every ear whether awake or asleep.

When do Muslims pray?

1. Before sunrise

2. After midday

3. Mid afternoon

4. Sunset

5. Evening

A translation of the Sunni Islam prayer, or Salah:

God is the greatest.

I bear witness that there is no deity except God.

I bear witness that Muhammad is the messenger of God.

Make haste towards worship.

Come to the true success.

Prayer is better than sleep.**

God is the greatest.

There is no deity except God.

** The line, "prayer is better than sleep," is used only in the first prayers of the day at dawn.

Meet Jordan's Royal Family

King Abdullah II

Born in 1962.

He is the 43rd direct descendent of Muhammad.

Married Queen Rania in 1993.

Ascended the throne in 1999.

He attended Deerfield Academy in Massachusetts.

He enjoys sky diving, rally racing, and scuba diving.

Queen Rania

Born in 1970.

Born in Kuwait to Palestinian parents.

Pursued a career in banking and once worked at Citibank in Jordan.

She met the King at a dinner party in 1993 and they were married 5 months later.

She enjoys jogging and baking chocolate chip cookies.

The Family

King Abdullah II

Queen Rania

Prince Hussein, 1994

Princess Iman, 1996

Princess Salma, 2000

Prince Hashem, 2005

King Abdullah II and South Korean President Lee Myung-Bak!

King Abdullah II loves Star Trek and appeared in a non-speaking role on the episode, "Investigations," in 1996.

Kerak Castle

Located on the old King's Highway, Kerak was once the capital of the Biblical kingdom of Moab. It was also home to the Nabateans, Romans, and Byzantines before the Crusaders began construction of their castle in the 1140s. Strategically located between Egypt and Syria during the Ottoman period, Kerak Castle also became the most important fortress between Jerusalem and Aqaba as it was a single day's journey from one fort to the next. At night, each fortress lit a beacon to inform Jerusalem it was safe from attack. Kerak resisted invasion several times, but finally fell after an assault in 1189. Today, the percentage of Christians in Kerak City is among the highest in Jordan.

We arrived late, as the castle was closing, and were initially denied entrance; but after some eyelash batting and smooth Arabic talking by a friend, we were allowed 10 quick minutes to look around the perimeter. Maybe next time....

Random fact: Kerak's twin city is Birmingham, Alabama

Merry Christmas!

A year later and it's still adorable...

Merry Christmas everyone!

Afternoon Drive in Jordan

Are you sleeping?

Love is color blind.

Mount Nebo

Then Moses climbed Mt. Nebo from the plains of Moab to the top of Pisgah, across from Jericho. There the Lord showed him the whole land—from Gilead to Dan, all of Naphtali, the territory of Ephraim and Manasseh, all the land of Judah as far as the western sea, the Negev and the whole region from the Valley of Jericho, the City of Palms, as far as Zoar. Then the Lord said to him, "This is the land I promised on oath to Abraham, Isaac and Jacob when I said, 'I will give it to your descendants.' I have let you see it with your eyes, but you will not cross over into it."

And Moses the servant of the Lord died there in Moab, as the Lord had said. He buried him in Moab, in the valley opposite Beth Peor, but to this day no one knows where his grave is. Moses was a hundred and twenty years old when he died, yet his eyes were not weak nor his strength gone. The Israelites grieved for Moses in the plains of Moab thirty days, until the time of weeping and mourning was over.

--Deuteronomy 34:1-8

Situated 6 miles NW of Madaba, and just north of the Dead Sea; Mt. Nebo provides a panorama of the Holy Land with visibility to the West Bank city of Jericho, as well as, Jerusalem on a clear day. Revered as one of the most important Christian sites in Jordan, Mt. Nebo is where Moses was shown a glimpse of the Holy Land—the end location of his exodus from Egypt with the Israelites. But, in accordance with God's plan, Moses died there in Moab and never stepped foot into the Promised Land.

A map of the views from Mt. Nebo depicting various cities and landmarks including the Dead Sea, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, and Jericho.

A close-up of a portion of the Promised Land across the border in Israel.

A modern sculpture of Moses' staff, by Giovanni Fantoni, symbolic of the bronze snake he created in the wilderness (Numbers 21:4-9) in combination with Jesus' cross (John 3:14).

Madaba's Mosaics

Madaba (Medeba), an ancient city in Jordan, is located 20 miles southwest of Amman. A former Moabite border city, the Bible mentions Madaba in Numbers and Joshua.

But we have overthrown them; Heshbon is destroyed all the way to Dibon. We have demolished them as far as Norphah, which extends to Medeba (Numbers 21:30).

It extended from Aroer on the rim of the Arnon Gorge, and from the town in the middle of the gorge, and included the whole plateau of Medeba as far as Dibon (Joshua 13:9).

Because of the large number of Byzantine mosaics uncovered in the area, Madaba is known as the "City of Mosaics." The first mosaics, discovered by accident, were understood to be of great importance by the priests at the time; and under their urgings, Madaba's new inhabitants made sure to preserve all future mosaics.

In 1896, the most famous discovery was made when the Madaba map, a 6th century mosaic map of the Holy Land, was uncovered. Situated in the floor of the Greek Orthodox Basillica of St. George, the mosaic map once contained two million pieces of colored stone and depicted hills, valleys, villages, and towns in Palestine and the Egyptian Nile Delta. Originally 51 ft. x 19.5 ft., the map's current remains are 34.5 ft. x 16.5 ft. with a still impressive 750,000 colored stones remaining. Despite its patchy remnants, the Madaba map is still revered for being the oldest map of the Holy Land still in existence.

Greek Orthodox Basilica of St. George

Everyone gathered around the Madaba mosaic floor map.

The mosaic map is located on the floor to the left in the picture, surrounded by chains.

The Dead Sea is at the top, right corner with the location of Jesus' baptism in the Jordan River coming off of it to the left. Jerusalem, surrounded by city walls, is depicted below the Dead Sea.

Close-up of Jerusalem

Close-up of the Dead Sea and Bethany-beyond-the Jordan.

Marhaba Jordan, Hello Jordan!

Touching down in Jordan, I was eager to immerse into a new culture. Having lived and traveled throughout Southeast Asia for a year, I gained a taste and understanding for the various countries and their unique cultures, but I was itching to try something different. Admittedly ignorant about several aspects of life in the Middle East, I knew the best way to learn was through experience and one month in three different countries promised to provide many diverse learning opportunities, not to mention the chance to see my friends after our year-long interlude.

After an emotionally exciting reunion, I began firing off the questions that were dancing through my mind while Kacy did her best to explain bits and pieces of what she has learned after her first year of living abroad.

What I learned in the first hour:

1. The men and women we saw on our flight to Kuwait were probably Palestinian because of the men's white robes and white or black/white checkered scarves. The black and white scarves are typical of Palestinian men while Jordanian men usually wear red and white.

2. We should not communicate in any way with men we do not know in public: talking, staring, smiling, etc. It is considered inappropriate in their culture and may be interpreted far differently than is our intention.

3. In general, Jordanians are fond of Americans, which makes it a safe country for us to visit.

4. There are "two" types of people in Jordan: Muslims and Christians. If a woman is not wearing a head-covering she is either a Christian or a very wealthy Muslim. We did not have to cover our heads.

5. People do not use headlights because they waste the car battery.

6. Most dishes include chicken, lamb, or beef. Muslims do not eat pork and we shouldn't advertise our love for bacon.

7. The "Call to Prayer" happens 5 times each day and is loudly projected from each mosque... There are many mosques.

A Few Hours in Kuwait

After leaving Thailand we headed to Jordan on Kuwait Airways, along with the Kuwait men's ice hockey team.... yep, ice hockey.... who knew? Our first step in the Middle East was on the tarmac of the Kuwait Airport where we stopped for a short layover. It was evident we were no longer in the lush tropics of Southeast Asia as shades of brown stretched across the horizon.

Inside the airport, I realized my ignorance of the culture. Smile or don't smile? Eye contact isn't appropriate here, right? Who can I talk to? Men in long white robes and matching head scarves swelled the crowd while women floated in and out wearing western clothes or floor-length black robes. Although their presence was expected, I felt compelled to stare and drink in the new culture until it became second nature to me. But, I figured staring is inappropriate in any culture and I'd rather not make a poor first impression so I reduced my curious staring to covert glances.

Traditional Arab dress

Goodbye Paradise

Although I wasn't ready to leave behind the life of a beach bum, I was excited to reacquaint with a few more friends and explore an area of the world I had never experienced, the Middle East. Our last days in Thailand were spent at another beachside retreat, World Resort; and aside from our wild encounters with elephants, monkeys, and crocodiles, we ended the week in Koh Samui just like we began—lounging in the sand and floating in the water.

Bungalows by the beach!!!

The outdoor restaurant at the resort.

These little guys were all over the island. This one in particular watched us eat dinner while trying to catch a few bugs of his own.

Our bungalow

The outdoor restaurant lit up against the backdrop of a black ocean.