JAPAN: Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park

The day after arriving in Japan and traveling to Hiroshima, we stepped out into the rain to visit the Peace Memorial Park. The gloomy day seemed like an appropriate backdrop for the emotionally charged monuments and memorials, but the drops of rain made balancing a camera and umbrella potentially hazardous. Located within the park are many monuments and buildings dedicated to remembering the victims of the world's first nuclear attack on August 6, 1945. These are the few we visited...

A-Bomb Dome

What was once the grand Industrial Promotion Hall, the remaining crumbled walls of the A-Bomb Dome now stand frozen in time. The A-Bomb dome is the only building that remained partially standing so close to the blast's hypocenter and now maintains a permanent place on the UNESCO World Heritage site list.

Children's Peace Monument

In remembrance of all the children who died in the blast, or later from injuries sustained as a result of the blast, the Children's Peace Monument contains a statue of a girl with outstretched arms and a paper crane flying above. The statue was inspired by Sadako Sasaki, a 12-year old girl who died ten years after the bomb from leukemia as a direct result of exposure to the bomb's radiation. While in the hospital just before her death, Sadako began folding paper into origami cranes believing that if she folded 1,000 cranes she would receive her wish—to become healthy again. Sadly, she died in October, 1955, before completing her goal. Inspired by her story and her hope for peace, school children from around the world sent the family paper cranes after her death to show their support and love. To this day, children continue to send paper cranes, which are now on colorful display near the statue.

The life-size boxes behind the statue house some of the millions of tiny paper cranes people continue to send in honor of the children who lost their lives in the blast.

A generation of visitors who undoubtedly each have a vivid memory of August 6, 1945.

Memorial Cenotaph

cenotaph: a tomb or monument erected in honor of a person or group of persons whose remains are elsewhere.

Built on August 6, 1952, the Memorial Cenotaph contains the names of all the people killed by the bomb. Located in the middle of the park, the cenotaph looks out onto the Peace Flame and the A-Bomb Dome.

Peace Flame

Another monument to the victims of the bomb, the Peace Flame has burned continuously since it was lit in 1964. It is said that the flame will "remain lit until all nuclear bombs on the planet are destroyed and the planet is free from the threat of nuclear annihilation."

The flame is in the center of the photograph with the Peace Museum located in the background.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

The Peace Museum is the largest museum within the park and houses an extensive collection of artifacts, pictures, and video from August 6, 1945, as well as, the months and years surrounding the blast. The first half of the museum provides a detailed history of Japan in the early 1900's including specific information on the city of Hiroshima. As visitors view the photographs and read their descriptions the events of surrounding attacks and military plans, like Pearl Harbor, chronologically unfold. American government documents discussing the plans for Japan are also displayed, including a letter written by Albert Einstein to President Franklin Roosevelt recommending the creation of the atomic bomb. (FYI: Prior to his death in 1954, Einstein summarized his feelings regarding his role in the genesis of the A-bomb: "I made one great mistake in my life... when I signed the letter to President Roosevelt recommending that atom bombs be made; but there was some justification- the danger that the Germans would make them." (Clark, Einstein: The Life and Times))

Before and after photographs and city-models display the physical effects of the bomb on the city, but it's the gut-wrenching photos and artifacts from victims and witnesses that personalize the events of August 6th. In pictures, burned clothing hangs off the melting skin of schoolchildren who were playing outside at the point of impact. The pattern of a kimono was permanently burned into a woman's back from the blast's inferno while other victims sustained holes, splotches, deformed skin, and numerous other horrific injuries. Sadly, those who survived rarely, if ever, returned to normal health. The after-effects of the atomic bomb were admittedly unknown at the time, but now painfully obvious in those who battle cancer and other health problems directly related to the radiation.

A model of Hiroshima before the blast

The leveled city after the blast (the large building still standing is the A-bomb dome).

The Industrial Promotional Hall (A-bomb dome) before the blast.

After the blast

A photo of a photo of the demolished city

An actual watch worn by someone at the time of the blast. The watch stopped at the precise moment of the bomb's impact freezing the moment forever in time—8:15 a.m.

In a desperate plea for peace and out of respect for the lives lost in the bombing, the mayors of Hiroshima continue to send letters of protest to those countries still conducting nuclear tests. Perhaps one day the world will be free of all nuclear weapons and the Peace Flame in Hiroshima, Japan can finally be extinguished.

Paper cranes

JAPAN: Travel to Hiroshima

While leaving the apartment on Tuesday at 5:00 am for the airport, I knew we had a long day ahead of us. The quick flight to Japan was broken up by a layover in Busan, South Korea; which created an additional hassle with our bags but was well-worth the discounted price. Of course, I was stopped at every check-point and had my bags and body searched for whatever illegal substance I looked most likely to be carrying. Security was extremely interested in the cosmetics I had in my carry-on bag and requested that I empty everything out so each item could be thoroughly inspected. Apparently I had a black mark that day in the travel world, and was euphorically grateful once we landed in Tokyo—bags in hand.

"Whoa," was the first word that flew through my brain and out of my mouth as we stepped out of baggage claim and into the hustle and bustle of the Tokyo airport. Swarms of people moved quickly in every direction like angry honeybees out of a nest. Navigating the crowds turned into an understood game of chicken as people criss-crossed paths of oncoming foot traffic. After picking up the rhythm of the crowd, we joined in the mass dance in search of the Shinkansen (bullet train) ticket office to pick up our previously purchased passes.

If your travel plans for Japan include cities spread throughout the country (and you are coming from a country other than Japan itself) it is more economical to spring for the Japan Rail Pass. Similar to the Eurail Pass in Europe, the JR Pass allows you unlimited rides within a designated time period (7, 14, or 21 days). Unfortunately for those who already live in Japan, or who forgot to purchase one ahead of time, a JR Pass can only be obtained outside the country. I'm not sure the exact reasoning for this, but I assume it has everything to do with money...

Shinkansen trains are definitely a modern day marvel as they transport thousands of people to hundreds of destinations throughout the country. Known for speed (there's a reason why the nickname, bullet train, stuck in the Western world), the trains average nearly 200 mph; but have reached faster speeds during test runs. Their punctuality is equally impressive as they pull into and out of stations within mere seconds (6 seconds to be exact) of their scheduled time. As a person who loves to be on time, I fully appreciated their promptness and dependability.

Riding a train across a country provides an excellent opportunity to view the landscape as it whirs by at incredible speeds, and gain a better understanding of its culture. Japan is much greener than I ever imagined and the crispness of the tree-covered mountains was exaggerated beneath the damp dew left behind from an earlier rain shower. As low clouds touched down on the land, the reality of Japan's mystery and enchantment came alive. Unfortunately, the same alluring clouds hid from view the snow-capped peak of Mt. Fuji leaving only its expansive base visible, which was like trying to admire the rise of a skyscraper only a few feet from the front door.

Having the window-seat proved lucky during one stop along the route. While waiting for the new passengers to board the train, I was immersed in the fascinating sport of people-watching (more commonly referred to as, staring). As travelers passed by my window I took note of their clothes, hair, facial features, luggage... everything. One particular person caught my attention before the train began to pull away, and I had just enough time for the image to register in my brain and do a double-take. A sumo wrestler. Of course, his size was what initially caught my attention, which drew my gaze to his traditional dress and up to the ubiquitous bun. Without enough time to pull out my camera and immortalize the visual experience, I have focused hard to sear the image into my long-term memory. In case any of you doubt what I saw, please read the below sentences from a reliable source commonly called, Wikipedia. Yay!

On entering sumo, they are expected to grow their hair long to form a topknot, or chonmage, similar to the samurai hairstyles of the Edo Period. Furthermore they are expected to wear the chonmage and traditional Japanese dress when in public. Consequently, sumo wrestlers can be identified immediately when in public.

Six hours after departing Tokyo, we arrived in Hiroshima and headed to our hostel—2 hours later than the arrival time we gave them. Thankfully, reception was still open and we were greeted with smiles at the front door. Exhausted from our 17-hour journey, we were eager to get in our room and head straight to bed. Hana Hostel was clean and easily accessible, but its teeny-tiny layout made me wonder whether I could survive six days in Japan. Our 4-bed room was just big enough to squeeze in two sets of bunkbeds and an airplane-sized bathroom with shower. The room temperature was set at a toasty 82 degrees, which we were unable to alter; and I quickly felt my enthusiasm shrink, like a leaky balloon. But, after a cold shower in a an uncomfortably small bathroom my head hit the pillow and I was out—dreaming of geishas, sumo wrestlers, samurais, and the elusive ninja.

Konnichiwa!

Just got back from a mind-boggling trip to Japan. Check back later this week for pictures and stories from 6 days in Hiroshima, Kyoto, and Tokyo.

Diary- Hair & Skirt

Middle schools and high schools have strict rules regarding the students' appearances. Of course, the boys and girls absolutely hate the restrictions and try to sneak around the system when at all possible. The length of hair is the most debated rule for both boys and girls. Boys must keep their locks short and far away from the shirt collar. In middle school, girls are required to cut their hair above their shoulders, or bind long hair (binding simply means a low ponytail pulled loose to give the illusion of a short bob in front). However, all female high school students must adhere to a "short hair only" policy. Not adhering to the rules results in a black mark on their record, or a teacher inflicted haircut. In some instances, it's hard to tell which would be worse. According to my middle school students, many hair salons are knowledgeable about the rules at each school so students need only to walk into a salon and ask for their school's cut. For example, "I'd like the Dongsan High School cut, please."

In addition to the strict hair rules, no makeup, nail polish, jewelry, or open-toe shoes; all middle schools and high schools require uniforms. A winter uniform and summer uniform are very similar except for the weight of the fabric and addition of a jacket. Boys wear long pants and a button-down shirt while girls don similar shirts with a skirt. Unhappy with the frumpiness of the uniforms, it's common for students to get them "fixed." Seamstresses are well-equipped to handle the common changes many students make to their wardrobe. Shortening the skirt a few centimeters and tightening the shirts are the most common adjustments made to the girls' uniforms. After seeing many of the boys, I wouldn't be surprised if they request alterations on their pants—skinny jeans are popular for guys and I doubt schools have the foresight to provide that option in their uniforms.

Hair & Skirt

by Rachel, 8th grade

I don't want bind my hair

but I must bind my hair.

I don't like long skirt,

but I have to wear a long skirt!

If I don't bind my hair and wear a short skirt,

teachers give a black mark.

But now I'm wearing a short skirt and don't binding my hair.

Why? Because I like it!

Actually, I'm scary.

(If teacher look me, teacher give a black mark. So I'm scary about that).

Rainy Days

With only a few interruptions of dry weather during the week, rainy days are a constant reminder that it's monsoon season. The sneaky showers accumulate strength throughout the morning and let loose all their power at the exact time I leave for work. Walking in a rain storm isn't as exciting when you have to endure wet clothes throughout the day, but my rain boots have proven to be a good purchase. Of course, with anything else there are pros and cons to the current meteorological situation.

Pro: Temperatures have remained in the 70's

Con: Students use their umbrellas as weapons

Happy Birthday America!

Celebrating the 4th of July in Korea felt slightly strange and incomplete as we set up our picnic and prepared to BBQ. As the only foreigners in the park, we received many strange looks from curious Koreans as they passed by without red, white, or blue stamped across their outfits. Our attempts at remaining inconspicuous were thwarted after finally lighting the grill, which spewed pillars of smoke high into the atmosphere. Luckily, the food was delicious and surprisingly reminiscent of home.

Hamburgers

Hot Dogs (once we figured out we had to remove the plastic casing, these weren't too bad)

Potato Salad

BBQ Baked Beans

Chips

Watermelon

American Flag Cake (with strawberries and blueberries)

Sweet Tea

Wine

After dinner we shot off the traditional fireworks with only one small accident; and twirled sparkler after sparkler. Fireworks are extremely easy to purchase in Korea at any neighborhood stationary store. On any given night, teenagers will entertain themselves with the crackling and popping of small rockets. I've decided there must not be any laws against it.

Lee, the "Grill Master"

Dennis and Melody

Andrea and Nicki

Happy Birthday, Joey!

Watch this video for a few mishaps from the day...

Lavon & Derrick, Missing You From Afar!

As people randomly begin and end their teaching contracts in Korea, it is sometimes difficult to form lasting friendships. A person you meet within the first few days of arriving in the new country might be heading home within the next week. After saying goodbye to a few new friends when we first arrived, Andrea and I were lucky to work the majority of our year alongside the same people whom we formed close bonds with. But, the end of June brought about the inevitable departure of our good friends, Lavon and Derrick; and it was strange to say goodbye. Working, exploring, shopping, traveling, and eating together was ritualistic and it was hard to imagine life in Korea without them. We miss them dearly, but look forward to visiting their home in Indiana and eating some pizza off the grill!

To Derrick & Lavon,

This video is for you!

Diary- Love Letter

Love Letter

by Kelly

5th grade

Today my best girl friend get a love letter.

So I was feel envy.

I want a boyfriend.

But I am not get a love letter.

When time I have boyfriend?

Teacher do you have a boyfriend?

Do you want a boyfriend?

YES or NO

(But if you have a boyfriend and no check)