Petra

Petra, meaning rock, lies at the slope of Mt. Hor south of Amman on the outskirts of Wadi Musa, Valley of Moses. Established in the 6th century BC as the capital city of the Nabataeans, it is currently the most visited site in Jordan and became one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007, in addition to its claim as a World Heritage site in 1985.

If that doesn't jog your memory, think of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Remember how Harrison Ford found the Holy Grail inside that huge building carved out of a rock? Yep, that's the Treasury, part of the ancient city of Petra. Aside from Indiana Jones, Moses also visited the area with the Israelites and it is there where he struck a rock with his staff to extract water. His brother, Aaron, is also buried atop Mount Hor.

Entering Petra from the Eastern side is the most popular and rewarding option. A half-mile hike, or donkey ride, leads you to the entrance of the Siq—probably the most theatrical gorge in the world. Formed after tectonic forces split the rock in half, the sandstone Siq gained its character from the waters and wind of Wadi Musa, which blew through the gap and rounded the rocky corners. As you gain ground on the one mile walk through the Siq, the rock walls push in and out, contracting like a lung. Vibrant hues of red and brown intensify with each ray of sunlight as the path opens up and deepen in the shadows when corners close in. Bracing at each turn, you know something special is near. Just when your intrigue peaks, you catch a glimpse of something bright as if someone has turned on a spotlight. The shadows are banned from going any farther and you know it's here.... the Treasury.

The half-mile before the Siq

Entering the mile long Siq

A glimpse of something spectacular

The Treasury

Forty meters high and carved entirely from the rock face, the Treasury rewards each visitor after their hike through the Siq—just as the Nabataeans intended. Although its purpose is unknown, most archaeologists believe it was used as a temple or tomb. Due to its misnomer, however, many Bedouins believed the urn at the top to be full of treasure; and in an effort to release the valuables, they pumped it full of bullets. Unfortunately, no treasure was found and the bullet holes, clearly visible from the ground, add an unnecessary modern-day touch.

Although astonishing, the Treasury is far from the end of Petra. Beyond the impressive carving, the cliffs open up to allow expansive views of the surrounding mountainsides. Cave dwellings are clearly visible at different levels and the image of life among the rocks is better understood.

Once living within Petra, the Bedouin tribes today reside in government assisted homes just outside the enchanting ruins in a semi-controversial effort to preserve it. However, they still spend most of their time within Petra in order to make a living guiding tours, giving camel or donkey rides, and selling souvenirs. Referring to their animals as air-conditioned taxis, it's easy to see most of them love spending time with tourists and simply working among one of the most spectacular sites in the world.

Cave homes

Beautiful stone

Air-conditioned taxis

Over an hour hike from the Treasury stands the almost equally impressive Monastery. Larger in size but lacking in the ornamentation of the Treasury, the Monastery was most likely used by the Nabataeans as a temple. Climbing the steep path to the left of the Monastery is unadvisable, but local kids enjoy playing on the steep carving, even hopping from one peak to the next—probably not a good idea.

Petra's immense size offers new discoveries the more one visits, but the heat and dry air quickly deflated our urge to continue on much longer. Before turning back, there was just one more thing we had to see—the view of the end of the world, according to the sign.

Hiking toward the Monastery

The Monastery

Overlooking the end of the world with a conspicuous nod to Keen.

After several hours of exploration, hiking, photographing, and sweating; we decided to call it a day and head back. But, in the interest of time, entertainment, and just because we could; we hitched a ride on one of the Bedouin's air-conditioned taxis...

Dead Sea

At 1,385 ft. below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth. It is 8.6 times more salty than the ocean with 33.7% salinity; and is the deepest hypersaline lake in the world at 1,240 ft. deep. Because of its salinity, the Dead Sea cannot support plant or animal life but at times has sustained certain types of bacteria.

The salt and minerals found in the sea are thought to provide healing powers and are often used in cosmetics and lotions. Used long ago as a health resort by Herod the Great, it is now a popular location for health spas and resorts, including the Marriott—which seems to have a resort in every city of the world.

Taking a swim in the Dead Sea is a strange experience as the salt in the water creates incredible buoyancy. Floating takes minimal to no effort and it's possible to do a sloppy sit-up without sinking. On the downside, any exposed cut is subject to extreme stinging and it's clear a little salt in the wound goes a long way. But, the burning is worth the strange weightless sensation and after a good scrub in the shower your skin is back to normal.

In addition to the foam from waves, the white stuff on the shore is also salt buildup.

Easily floating while nearly sitting upright.

Amman Citadel & Roman Theater

Known as Jabal al-Qal'a in Arabic, the 40 acre L-shaped Citadel is situated atop one of Amman's original seven hills and surrounded by deep wadis (valleys) on all sides except the north. Used for protection by the Ammonites during Biblical times, the citadel is the location of David's attack and likely the site of Uriah's death (2 Samuel 11). Today, the site is undergoing continuous excavation and is now home to the first national Archaeological Museum. Its position high above the city offers expansive views and quiet respite.

Temple of Hercules

Constructed in the mid-2nd century AD, Amman's amphitheater is one of 125 Roman theaters worldwide, 13 of which are located in Jordan. Originally built by the Greeks, the theater was much smaller because they relied solely on hillsides for support. However, it was later remodeled by the Romans into what it is today using more modern architectural techniques including arches for side support. The theater seats 6,000 people and is now a popular hang out for tourists and random Amman residents.

View of the stage

At the top—it was a very scary climb for someone wary of heights.... me!

Oops!

While driving around Amman and taking in the sites, we rolled up to the US Embassy. Considering it a home away from home, a couple girls decided to take a picture. Why not? We were already photographing everything in sight. So, we pulled the truck over, rolled down the window, aimed the camera.... and came face to face with several guards shoved into an even larger truck topped with a machine gun.

"No pictures! No pictures!" they barked.

"Uh oh...."

The intimidating truck pulled a quick U-Turn and made its way over to our van ready to shoot us full of questions. Where are you from? What are you doing in Jordan? Where is your camera? We handed over the iphone, which posed no problem for the guard as he navigated his way over buttons and through files. After a few minutes, enough time to probably check his e-mail, he handed it back and reminded us that pictures were off limits.

So began the first joke of the trip.... "Are you sure we can take a picture of that?"

Chicks Trip Kick Off in Amman

Five days after arriving in Jordan, a few other friends joined us and our annual Chicks Trip officially began. Welcome to Amman, ladies!

Amman's Colors

Early Afternoon

Late Afternoon

Sunset

Night

(photo courtesy of Melissa)

A few random facts about Amman:

1. Now a city of 2 million, Amman was first inhabited during the Neolithic period, around 8500 BC.

2. Once under the rule of Ptolemy II Philadelphus of Egypt, Amman's former name was Philadelphia.

3. Around 326 AD Christianity was the city's main religion.

4. Sometimes referred to as The City of Seven Hills, Amman has expanded to nineteen hills.

5. Residents enjoy four seasons throughout the year and even experience snow fall each winter.

6. Amman is one of the most liberal cities in the Middle East and more westernized than Cairo.

7. Jordanians experience freedom of worship and are not required to dress in a particular way, including wearing a veil (although most Muslim women always wear one).

8. Amman has two sister cities in the U.S.— Miami, Florida and Chicago, Illinois.

Jerash, Jordan

Located 30 miles north of Amman, near Syria, is the ancient Greco-Roman city of Jerash—often referred to as the "Pompeii of the Middle East" for its level of preservation, immense size, and extent of excavation. However, unlike Pompeii, Jerash was not buried beneath the ash of a volcanic eruption. As one of the most important and best preserved Roman cities in the Near East, it was once part of the Decapolis and inhabited as early as the Bronze Age in 3200-1200 BC.

After conquering by Rome in 63 BC, Jerash flourished through the 1st and 2nd centuries AD while enjoying peace and security. In the 3rd century it was reborn as a Christian city under Byzantine rule and the addition of 7 churches rounded out its cityscape. However, Persian invasion in 614 AD and Muslim capture in 635 ignited a rapid decline, which put the city to rest after an earthquake in 749 AD destroyed much of what was left.

Since 1920, the ancient city of Jerash has been continuously excavated and restored leading to an impressive site rich with history and the remnants of a past life.

Hadrian's Arch, south side entrance

Hippodrome—home to chariot races and sporting events

South Gate—part of the 4th century AD city wall

Inside the Oval Plaza

The Oval Plaza measures 90 x 80 meters and is surrounded by 1st-century Ionic columns

The stage in the amphitheater near the Temple of Zeus

Seating within the amphitheater

A random performance of Amazing Grace

Old Jerash meets New Jerash

Pieces of old columns stack up precariously to create a new one

The column and broken stone graveyard

Bethany Beyond the Jordan

And so John came, baptizing in the desert region and preaching a baptism of repentance for the forgiveness of sins. The whole Judean countryside and all the people of Jerusalem went out to him. Confessing their sins, they were baptized by him in the Jordan River.

John wore clothing made of camel's hair, with a leather belt around his waist, and he ate locusts and wild honey. And this was his message: "After me will come one more powerful than I, the thongs of whose sandals I am not worthy to stoop down and untie. I baptize you with water, but he will baptize you with the Holy Spirit."

At that time Jesus came from Nazareth in Galilee and was baptized by John in the Jordan. As Jesus was coming up out of the water, he saw heaven being torn open and the Spirit descending on him like a dove. And a voice came from heaven: "You are my Son, whom I love; with you I am well pleased."

--Mark 1:4-11

Considered one of the most important finds in Biblical archaeology, Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan is believed to be the site of Jesus' baptism by John and the area where the Prophet Elijah ascended into Heaven (2 Kings 2:5-18). After examining multiple historical accounts in which several churches were mentioned, archaeologists uncovered an astonishing 21 ancient sites. Most excavations, however, were not carried out until 1996 following the 1994 Peace Treaty between Israel and Jordan and two subsequent years of clearing land mines along the border.

Although the ruins do not date back to Christ's time, most scholars believe this is the Biblical location of Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan; and the majority agree Jesus was not baptized on the west bank of Israel, contrary to some opinions. In 2000, the Armenian church officially declared the site to be the location of Jesus' baptism and Pope John Paul II held an outdoor mass for 25,000 worshippers.

Today, people from all over the world make their way to the different sites in order to catch a glimpse at what may be the exact scene of Jesus' baptism, if not a general location of where it happened. Because much of the Jordan River is used upstream by both Israel and Jordan, it has been reduced to a muddy stream without the flow of heavy currents. Its position as nearly the lowest point on Earth means temperatures soar to 113 degrees Fahrenheit most days, except during winter.

In addition to viewing the river itself, pilgrims to the site can arrange religious ceremonies at any of the various baptism pools. The local gift shops at the site's entrance sell white robes if people prefer to outwardly commemorate the occasion. However, we toured the sites alongside a Russian family who chose to enter the muddy Jordan River itself with their crisp white robes. If I could send them a letter, it would read something like this:

Dear family who wore white robes,

The muddy water made them transparent.

We all saw everything.

Perhaps you should've worn a swim suit underneath.

Sorry,

The other people in your tour group

A map of the Church of John the Baptist. Some people believe the actual site of Jesus' baptism to be located at the bottom of the map near the arch, where the river splits.

7th-century Church of John the Baptist. From the map, the arch (and location of Jesus' baptism) would've been located near the end of the stairs in the forefront of the photo.

The Jordan River today—the Israeli border is directly across the water.

Unfortunately, my foot was caked in a thin layer of mud after dipping it into the river and subsequently targeted by flies.

New Orthodox Church of St. John the Baptist