Mind Body Seoul

Hitchin' a Ride

2010-04-15T08:40:00.006-05:00

During my two months of traveling after Korea, I spent a lot of time moving from place to place. Although I walked my legs off most days, it was inevitable I would be hitching a ride at some point. And, hitch a ride I did...

Number of...

Airplanes: 17

Personal cars/vans: 4

Hired cars: 1

Taxis: Hundreds

City buses: 7

Micro-buses: 3

Tour buses/vans: 3

Subways: Several in Shanghai and Istanbul

Trains: 3

Funiculars: 1

Maglevs: 1

Faluccas: 1

Med/Lg Boats: 3

Canal boats: 1

Horse & Buggies: 1

Camels: 1

Elephants: 1

Al-most. There.

2010-04-14T16:42:00.009-05:00

After 14 months abroad I was excited to return home to the states; but anxious, terrified, hesitant, and confused all at the same time. Checking in for a US-bound flight didn't go as smoothly as my previous flights for which I was equally annoyed and thankful. After demanding our passports without so much as a polite greeting, the United employee grilled us on our whereabouts and intentions...

Him: How long have you been out of the U.S.?

Me: 14 months

Him: Where were you before Istanbul?

Me: Umm... South Korea, China, Japan, Thailand, Jordan, and Egypt.

Him: Have you been to Tel Aviv?

Me: No.

He walks away with my passport and then returns.

Him: Are you sure you haven't been to Tel Aviv?

Me: Yes (Of course I'm sure!—I think I'd remember that!)

Him: furrowed brow

Just then, a light bulb turned on in my head as I realized I had an Israeli stamp from the border crossing between Jordan and Egypt. I explained the stamp and then all was well. Still, what if I had been to Tel Aviv? What would have happened to me? No Thanksgiving dinner?

The flight into Chicago was delayed several hours and as Melissa and I sat in our seats worrying whether or not we would make our connecting flights back home, we concocted an emergency Thanksgiving dinner plan. If we were put up in a hotel for the night we were going to make sure we had the culinary items most important in any Thanksgiving spread: Oreos, Dr. Pepper, some kind of cheese, Chai lattes, etc.

Luckily, Melissa made her connecting flight which had been delayed, as well. I, however, did not. After transferring to the next flight out, which was delayed for mechanical problems; attempting unsuccessfully to hop on stand-by with a separate flight a few hours later; and then returning to the gate in order to wait for the mechanical-problem-plane to show up I finally arrived home at 1:00 am on Thanksgiving day—six hours late. As many problems as I had, poor Andrea had more and ended up staying a night in Frankfurt, Germany. Fourteen months out of the country and we could barely catch a break back into our own states. But, I survived the ordeal and the days, weeks, and months away from home and returned home to my first American meal filled with turkey, mashed potatoes, spinach casserole, and pumpkin pie. Not bad.

Things I noticed immediately upon returning to the U.S.A (before leaving the airport)....

1. Everyone speaks English and it's very distracting. After living among foreign languages so long it was difficult to tune out the conversations around me, especially while still in the airport. Several people were discussing their trips home from college, one girl was crying about the possibility of missing Thanksgiving and spending it alone in the airport but didn't feel her boyfriend was sympathizing enough with the situation, and a family debated whether it would be faster to drive from Chicago rather than wait on the late flight. I wasn't even deliberately eavesdropping!

2. Trash cans. They're everywhere!

3. Toilet paper. It's everywhere!

4. American money doesn't need to be converted in my head.

5. The menus at each restaurant and food stand throughout the airport are in English.

Oh, no...

2010-04-09T13:36:00.001-05:00

Climbing over a gate topped with spikes... not a good idea.

Basilica of St. John, Ephesus

2010-04-04T22:04:00.001-05:00

Author of the Bible's fourth Gospel and the book of Revelation, St. John was an apostle, evangelist, and prophet. His movement throughout Europe and Asia is documented in many historical and sacred books, and it is known he was at the feet of Jesus during the crucifixion. After Jesus' death, it is believed John took Jesus' mother, Mary, to Ephesus where he lived out the duration of his life.

The perceived gravesite of John in Selcuk, just two miles from ancient Ephesus, was enclosed by a humble church in the 4th century. In the 6th century, Emperor Justinian, believing the tomb was that of St. John's, built a magnificent church in the same location and transformed the area into a sacred site. Its brick and marble construction was rare at the time, and if reconstructed today the cathedral would be the seventh largest in the world.

St. John's grave

A view from the basilica wall toward Isabey Mosque

View of Selcuk from the basilica wall

Great Theater, Ephesus

2010-04-02T16:28:00.001-05:00

Constructed in the 1st Century around 40 AD, the Great Theater in Ephesus is an important site of Biblical proportion. In the 1st Century, the Apostle Paul spent three years in Ephesus preaching the Gospel and condemning paganism. According to the book of Acts, the theater is the site of the "riots of the silversmiths"—those who made silver figurines of Artemis claimed Paul's preaching was bad for business.

About that time there arose a great disturbance about the Way. A silversmith named Demetrius, who made silver shrines of Artemis, brought in no little business for the craftsmen. He called them together, along with the workmen in related trades, and said: "Men, you know we receive a good income from this business. And you see and hear how this fellow Paul has convinced and led astray large numbers of people here in Ephesus and in practically the whole province of Asia. He says that man-made gods are no gods at all. There is danger not only that our trade will lose its good name, but also that the temple of the great goddess Artemis will be discredited, and the goddess herself, who is worshiped throughout the province of Asia and the world, will be robbed of her divine majesty."

When they heard this, they were furious and began shouting: "Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!" Soon the whole city was in an uproar. The people seized Gaius and Aristarchus, Paul's traveling companions from Macedonia, and rushed as one man into the theater. Paul wanted to appear before the crowd, but the disciples would not let him. Even some of the officials of the province, friends of Paul, sent him a message begging him not to venture into the theater.

The assembly was in confusion: Some were shouting one thing, some another. Most of the people did not even know why they were there. The Jews pushed Alexander to the front, and some of the crowd shouted instructions to him. He motioned for silence in order to make a defense before the people. But when they realized he was a Jew, they all shouted in unison for about two hours: "Great is Artemis of the Ephesians!"

The city clerk quieted the crowd and said: "Men of Ephesus, doesn't all the world know that the city of Ephesus is the guardian of the temple of the great Artemis and of her image, which fell from heaven? Therefore, since these facts are undeniable, you ought to be quiet and not do anything rash. You have brought these men here, though they have neither robbed temples nor blasphemed our goddess. If, then, Demetrius and his fellow craftsmen have a grievance against anybody, the courts are open and there are proconsuls. They can press charges. If there is anything further you want to bring up, it must be settled in a legal assembly. As it is, we are in danger of being charged with rioting because of today's events. In that case we would not be able to account for this commotion, since there is no reason for it." After he had said this, he dismissed the assembly.

Acts 19: 23-41

Library of Celsus, Ephesus

2010-03-31T12:04:00.001-05:00

Originally commissioned by the Consul Julius Aquila as a mausoleum for his father, Julius Celsus Polemaeanus, the Library of Celsus is one of the most beautiful and recognized buildings in Ephesus. After its construction between 110 and 135 AD, Celsus was buried in a niche in the back wall. When a fire destroyed the reading room and an earthquake collapsed the facade in the 10th Century, the library was resurrected to its beautiful state between 1970 and 1978 by the Austrian archaeologists.

Slope Houses, Ephesus

2010-03-30T22:30:00.001-05:00

Built along the slopes on the south side of Curetes Street sit a series of homes from the wealthy upper class citizens. Used from the 1st Century to the 7th Century AD, the homes offer archaeologists an invaluable insight into the lives of the wealthy citizens, and have been compared in importance to the first-class villas in Pompeii.

Most of the homes were three storied with an internal courtyard surrounded by rooms, and an exit onto the side street from a terrace. The open courtyards in the middle of the homes were paved with marble and outlined with marble columns. Each house had running water and a heating system during winter months. Today, archaeologists are working to uncover and preserve the fascinating mosaics and frescoes that decorated the homes' interiors.

Latrine, Ephesus

2010-03-28T18:15:00.000-05:00

Similar to some public toilets we encountered along our trip, the latrine in Ephesus appeared awkward, uncomfortable, and hardly private. However, it was actually quite modern and civilized for its time. Toilet seats constructed out of marble slabs sat side by side over a channel of an uninterrupted flow of water beneath a covered roof. The middle of the room was open to the sky above and contained a sunken pool that once caught rain water.

Temple of Hadrian, Ephesus

2010-03-28T18:00:00.000-05:00

Erected in 118 AD, the Temple of Hadrian was actually a monument dedicated to Hadrian, Artemis and the people of Ephesus, rather than a temple. It's beauty and intricate carvings of historical and mythological figures make it one of Ephesus' most popular attractions.

Trajan Fountain

2010-03-26T16:10:00.001-05:00

Situated along Curetes Street, the Trajan Fountain was built between 102 and 104 AD and was dedicated to the Emperor Trajan. At one time, many historical and mythological figurines lined the fountain but have since been relocated to the Ephesus Museum.

Curetes Street, Ephesus

2010-03-26T13:20:00.001-05:00

Cutting across the city grid, the diagonal Curetes Street, known as Embolos in Late Antiquity, was later named Curetes, meaning priests of Artemis, from an inscription found by archaeologists. It was once lined with shops, workshops, and inns; and provided the processional route to the Temple of Artemis.

Temple of Domitian, Ephesus

2010-03-25T14:05:00.001-05:00

The Temple of Domitian was the first structure in Ephesus dedicated to an emperor. Originally built on a terrace, the temple had eight columns on the shorter side and thirteen across the length. Today, not much remains of the temple except for the terrace wall, a portion of the staircase, and various pieces of columns.

Prytaneion, Ephesus

2010-03-25T10:15:00.001-05:00

One of the most important buildings in ancient Ephesus, the Prytaneion was dedicated to the goddess, Hestia. As the sister of Zeus and Hera, Hestia was honored in temples and homes throughout the Hellenistic and Roman periods. In the Prytaneion, Hestia was represented as a sacred flame, which was never to be extinguished. The building was also used by religious and civic leaders to receive official guests to the city.

Odeion, Ephesus

2010-03-24T09:45:00.001-05:00

Also known as the Small Theater, the Odeion was a semi-circular structure used for performances. Like other theaters, the Odeion contained three main sections: the cavea (auditorium), the orchestra (place of action for the actors), and the skene (stage building). It had a capacity to seat 1,400 spectators and was probably covered in a wooden roof due to the absence of rainwater gutters.

Temple of Artemis, Ephesus

2010-03-21T13:00:00.000-05:00

Between Selcuk and Ephesus stands a single reconstructed marble column, all that remains of one of the Seven Wonders of the World—the Temple of Artemis. Originally constructed in 650 BC to Artemis, the temple underwent reconstruction twice after a fire destroyed it first and then attack and plunder ruined it a second time. At 377 feet long and 180 feet wide, the Temple of Artemis dwarfed its Greek counterpart, the Parthenon. It consisted of 127 columns, each 60 feet in height, and was made almost entirely out of marble. Today, it is difficult to imagine the lonely column surrounded by 126 others of such an immense size. Imagining its beauty, however, is easy.

The marshy location of the former Temple of Artemis.

The lone column, all that remains of the temple.

A statue from the temple called, the "Great Artemis."

Ephesus

2010-03-21T12:00:00.001-05:00

Once an ancient Greek city on the west coast of Anatolia, Ephesus is now part of modern-day Turkey located near the city of Selcuk in the Izmir province. During the Roman period, Ephesus was the second-largest city in the Roman empire after Rome, itself. In the first century BC, Ephesus became the second largest city in the world with a population of 250,000—a far cry from Tokyo's largest population today of over 30 million. Currently, only 15% of Ephesus' ruins have been excavated, leaving an impressive amount of history undiscovered.

Aside from its ruins, Ephesus is revered for its place in religious history. Countless pilgrims visit the ancient city as the once home to the apostles Paul and John, and the Virgin Mary. It is there where Paul wrote 1 Corinthians and John may have written his Gospel.

Because there are so many notable sites, I will write several posts about the area.

Below the Surface

2010-03-21T11:00:00.001-05:00

Hundreds of underground cities hide below Cappadocia's peculiar rock formations. Used during the Byzantine period, the underground cities provided a place of refuge from increasing invasions and Christian persecution. The underground city we visited wound eight levels below the surface in a series of tunnels, rooms, and traps. A ventilation system sustained life for the underground city dwellers, but also doubled as a trap to end the lives of unwanted visitors. Bedrooms, classrooms, bathrooms, living rooms, kitchens, and even wine cellars were carved out of the rock to create an incredible environment for the thousands of people, and animals, who were forced into hiding.

This is the area where they smashed grapes in order to make wine. The juice flowed through the hole...

... and down into a bowl, which was placed on the lower level. It's a bit like miniature-golf.

Classroom

A Camel of a Different Color

2010-03-18T18:45:00.001-05:00

Not all camels look like twins. Aside from the number of humps, camels can have very different appearances due to their fur, body structure, and facial features. In Jordan and Egypt, the camels looked relatively similar but those in Turkey were a little more full-figured.

Jordan

Turkey

Fairy Chimneys

2010-03-17T10:00:00.001-05:00

Because of ancient volcanic eruptions and years of extreme wind erosion, Cappadocia—a region in central Turkey—resembles my imagination's perception of a Martian landscape. The strange rock formations, often referred to as fairy chimneys, are the result of a complicated recipe of occurrences. As my overly confident tour guide attempted to explain the sequence of events leading up to Cappadocia's unique appearance, I tried to follow his stick-drawn diagram in the sand.

My summary of his explanation is that the area contains three layers of rock: basalt, ash, and lava. Extreme differences in the thickness of each layer (basalt is the hardest while ash is the softest) is a major contributing factor for the formations' strange appearances. As water creates cracks in the layers, the rock breaks off at different points. Over time, wind and water erosion shape the rock into peaks, or chimneys. Yes, something like that...

Regardless of whether or not you know the technicalities, the Cappadocia region is an interesting natural phenomenon. And, like most things, knowing the answer takes away from some of its mystery.

Exteriors

Interiors

Years ago, the rock formations were used by entire communities as homes, churches, and schools.

Grand Bazaar

2010-03-15T10:36:00.001-05:00

The Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is Turkey's largest covered shopping market. With thousands of stores, it's an overwhelmingly exhilarating experience. As the end of our trip neared, we had less time, less money, and less space to purchase everything we wanted but enjoyed the afternoon strolling through the tip of the iceberg.

The ubiquitous evil eye—here and there in Jordan and Egypt, but ALL OVER Turkey!

Turkey has some of the most beautiful lanterns I have ever seen—another reason to return.

Traditional Turkish designs decorate bowls, plates, and tiles everywhere.

Of course, no country visit is complete without a new scarf... or two.

Oh, the jewelry... so unique and so beautiful.

*all photos courtesy of Andrea G.

Turkish Delight

2010-03-12T11:00:00.001-06:00

My favorite Turkish delight is not the savory little sweets found throughout the country, but the beautifully rich rugs—particularly those in one man's Istanbul shop. I regret not buying one when I look back at the stunning pictures, but I guess it just gives me another reason to return to the city! Although, it doesn't take much convincing beyond that...

Yum!

2010-03-11T13:20:00.001-06:00

Turkey offers a lot of delicious food options and we were thrilled to taste test many of them, but we found ourselves especially loving the following five:

1. Borek

A baked or fried filled pastry made from phyllo. It is often filled with feta cheese, meat, or vegetables. I usually enjoyed the cheese or spinach-filled borek.... yum!

2. Gozleme

A stuffed, hand rolled pastry that is cooked over a griddle. Oftentimes, it is filled with the same ingredients as borek—cheese, vegetables, or meat—but we also enjoyed it with honey and peanut butter... yum!

3. Baklava

Although it looks similar to borek and gozleme, baklava tastes very different. Made from phyllo dough, baklava is sweetened with syrup or honey and frequently coated in pistachios... yum!

4. Stuffed Baked Potatoes

Perhaps it is not a "traditional" Turkish dish, but Istanbul loves their stuffed baked potatoes. Similar to the counter at Subway, you can choose from a variety of different toppings for your potato including olives, meat, coleslaw, mushrooms, onions, potato salad... Why not top your baked potato with potato salad? Yum.

5. Stuffed Waffles

A great idea! Why choose toppings for a baked potato or Subway sandwich when you can put things inside a waffle? Chocolate sauce, carmel sauce, pistachio cream, strawberry cream, whipped cream, dark chocolate, milk chocolate, white chocolate, peanuts, walnuts, kiwi, strawberries, pineapple, yellow cherries, red cherries, green cherries, sprinkles, coconut... yum!

FYI: It's possible the stuffed waffles may upset your stomach...

Chora, You are Beautiful

2010-03-09T21:00:00.001-06:00

Like so many of its counterparts, the Church of St. Savior in Chora was a one-time Christian church turned Islamic mosque. In keeping with tradition, its beautiful Byzantine mosaics were covered in plaster during the switch, which incidentally saved them. Today, the church/mosque is a secular museum known for having the best preserved Byzantine frescoes and mosaics anywhere in the world, and rightly so.

Mosaic of the Dormition (death) of the Virgin

Awkward...

2010-03-07T21:00:00.001-06:00

Blue Mosque

2010-03-05T14:30:00.000-06:00

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque

(also known as the Blue Mosque for the blue tiles that decorate its interior)

Underground Beauty

2010-03-04T23:55:00.001-06:00

Beneath the ground, 500 feet west of the Hagia Sophia, lies the largest ancient cistern in Istanbul—the Basilica Cistern. A forest of massive columns, the cistern's beauty competes with its above-ground neighboring buildings. The 105,000 square foot space originally provided water for the Great Palace of Constantinople and the Topkapi Palace; but now offers tourists a unique tour in an unexpected location.

*The Basilica Cistern's claim to fame:

It was used as a location in the 1963 James Bond film, From Russia with Love.

Two peculiar Medusa heads provide the base for columns in one corner of the cistern.

Hagia Sophia

2010-03-03T09:45:00.001-06:00

Originally constructed by Constantine the Great, the current Hagia Sophia was rebuilt by Emperor Justinian I in 532. It is said to be one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture because of its intricate mosaics and massive marble pillars. After over 900 years as the Orthodox church of Constantinople, its entire function changed when Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror marched into the city and claimed the beautiful building as his own, immediately converting it into a mosque.

For 500 years, the Hagia Sophia stood as Istanbul's most famous mosque and inspired the design and architecture of several Ottoman mosques in the city. Inside, small additions such as the minbar (pulpit), mihrab (prayer room) and wooden minaret officially converted the Christian church into a Muslim mosque. Eventually, the beautiful mosaics depicting Biblical imagery were plastered over.

Today, the Hagia Sophia has been secularized into a museum for the public. The Islamic additions still remain as people work to uncover the beautiful Christian mosaics.

The highest indoor scaffolding I have ever seen!

The minbar, or pulpit

The well-known Virgin and Child mosaic

Some mosaics survived the plaster covering better than others.

Topkapi Palace

2010-03-02T09:00:00.001-06:00

Home to the Ottoman Sultans for 400 years, Topkapi Palace was originally constructed by Mehmed II during the 1460s. It is made up of four main courtyards surrounded by various smaller buildings and functioned almost as an autonomous city within the city. Today, the palace acts as a museum displaying not only its buildings, but also various artifacts from the Ottoman Period (carriages, Islamic antiques, royal jewelry and weapons....). Most of our time within the palace walls was spent exploring the fascinating Harem and although the royal jewelry and artifacts were beautiful, I was unable to photograph any of them.

The Imperial Gate was the sultan's main entrance to the palace and leads directly into the First Courtyard.

The First Courtyard is also the largest of the palace's four courtyards and functioned primarily as a park. Located on its grounds are the formal Imperial Mint and Church of Hagia Irene.

After seeing wild cats throughout Jordan and Egypt, we were not surprised to find them in Turkey, too. However, Turkish cats are much cleaner and in overall better condition than their Middle Eastern counterparts. It probably doesn't hurt that people like this man find them irresistible and feed them delicious Turkish treats.

The Gate of Salutation leads into the main palace grounds and the Second Courtyard.

THE HAREM

The Harem, containing 400 rooms connected by a series of hallways and courtyards, was home to the sultan's mother, wives, concubines, children, and servants.

The Courtyard of the Eunuchs

The Eunuchs (castrated men) acted as servants and guards to the women of the Harem.

Traditional Turkish tiles lined the walls throughout the Harem.

The Courtyard of the Sultan's Consorts and Concubines

It is surrounded by baths, a laundry fountain, dormitories and the apartments of the Sultan's chief consorts.

The Apartments of the Queen Mother are part of the largest section of rooms in the Harem. Included within the apartments are a music room, bedroom, reception room, dining room, and bathrooms.

The Queen Mother and her attendants

Marble-floored hallways lead between rooms.

Part of the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother.... cold, cold, cold!

The Imperial Hall served as the official reception room for the Sultan and the primary entertainment room of the Harem. From his throne (pictured), the sultan received his children and other guests while watching various performances, including wedding ceremonies.

Exterior of the Twin Apartments of the Crown Prince

The Crown Prince lived here in seclusion until adulthood when he traveled to another Anatolian province to receive training in the administration of state affairs.

The Courtyard of the Favorites included apartments for the Sultan's favorite consort, who assumed official titles and powers when she became pregnant.

Now it's Istanbul, not Constantinople

2010-02-28T09:31:00.006-06:00

Historically known as Byzantium and Constantinople, Istanbul is the cultural, economic, and financial center of Turkey. Located on either side of the Bosphorus Strait, Istanbul is the only city in the world that sits on two continents—Europe and Asia. After leaving Egypt, arriving in Istanbul, and driving across the Bosphorus Strait, we managed to stand on three continents within one day...

Istanbul on two continents—Europe in the background and Asia in the foreground.

Constantinople's city walls

Starbucks Series 4... Alexandria

2010-02-25T12:23:00.001-06:00

My Starbucks Series idea fizzled after only three videos in Korea, but was spontaneously resurrected one afternoon in Alexandria, Egypt.

This time, Andrea and I brought friends and the randomness continued...

Bibliotheca Alexandria

2010-02-23T23:00:00.001-06:00

Launched in 288 BC, the Ancient Library of Alexandria attracted scholars, poets, mathematicians, and scientists from a variety of cultures. Inside its walls, the great thinkers of the past studied as children and researched as adults. People such as:

1. Aristarchus,

the first to state that the earth revolves around the sun, a full 1800 years before Copernicus.

2. Eratosthenes,

proved that the Earth was spherical and calculated its circumference with amazing accuracy, 1700 years before Columbus sailed on his epic voyage.

3. Callimachus,

the poet, described the scrolls in the Library organized by subject and author, becoming the Father of Library Science.

4. Euclid,

wrote his elements of geometry, the basic text studied in schools all over the world to this day.

5. Herophilus,

identified the brain as the controlling organ of the body and launched a new era of medicine.

6. The Septuagint,

the first translation of the Old Testament from Hebrew into Greek, was created.

7. Manetho,

chronicled the pharaohs and organized our history into the dynasties we use to this day.

- information from the Bibliotheca Alexandria website

Over time, the library suffered a gradual decline and fell victim to an accidental fire and neglect. By 400 AD, the library had vanished and only its memory remained. In 1974, a committee of people from Alexandria University had an idea to revive the old library. A competition for the architectural design of the building was held in 1988 and construction began in 1995. Finally, in October 2002, the Bibliotheca Alexandria was completed.

Its modern design, immense size, and technologically advanced features make it the most famous library in the Arab world. Currently, the collection includes around 650,000 books with a capacity for 8 million. The library also includes one of the largest computer systems in the world and a new one-of-a-kind machine called, the Espresso. Once finished, the Espresso will be capable of printing and binding any book ever written within 20 minutes.

Alexandria by the Sea

2010-02-22T19:15:00.001-06:00

Founded by Alexander the Great in 331 BC, Alexandria is the second-largest city in Egypt and the country's former capital. Its location on the Mediterranean Sea makes it the largest seaport in Egypt serving 80% of the country's imports and exports.

After spending time in Cairo and Luxor we were thankful for the cooler temperatures, but not as thrilled with the pounding wind. Nevertheless, the seaside town was beautiful and a welcomed change of scenery. Our group of six was now down to four and it would only be a matter of days before we entered the last country on our trip... Turkey. In the meantime, we enjoyed the relaxing pace of Alexandria and recharged our batteries once again.

Sheep and goats waiting to be slaughtered for the Muslim holiday, Eid.

Perhaps it was better they had no idea of their fate...

Luxor Temple

2010-02-21T21:15:00.000-06:00

King Ramesses II

Constructed by King Amenhotep III who reigned 1390-1353 BC, the Temple of Luxor was dedicated to the gods Amun-Re, Mut, and Khons. Additions and completions were made by Ramesses II, Tutankhamun, and Horemheb. Used continuously as a place of worship, even for the Christian church at one time, the temple was eventually buried beneath the city for thousands of years. During this time, a Muslim mosque was built on top of the structure and when the Luxor Temple was finally uncovered, the mosque was left in place where it still remains today.

Nana, our tour guide the previous day, highly recommended we save the Luxor Temple for after dark when it comes to life under hundreds of spotlights. She was right. It was magnificent...

Outer entrance constructed by King Ramesses II and flanked with his statues.

photo by Andrea

My favorite area, the Sun Court of Amenhotep III, is an enchanting room bordered by huge romantic columns.

photo by Andrea

The avenue of sphinxes, still being uncovered, link the Luxor Temple with the Karnak Temple.

Now, I know the song I used for the video below isn't what you might initially think of, but the beauty of the lit-up temple cast a spell on me.

B-A-N-A-N-A-S

2010-02-19T16:05:00.001-06:00

When I'm in Egypt and I'm all templed out, I like to do something different. Hop on a relaxing river boat, sail down the Nile and stop on an island. A banana island, that is.

It's true.

On Luxor's banana island, hundreds of banana trees bask in the sunlight while farmers sit and wait for the fruit to ripen. Why do tourists visit the island? I'm not sure. There aren't any mummies or pyramids or temples or statues to see. In fact, the only other thing to look at is the crocodile the locals have captured, which they now poke with a stick. Obviously, that's not a good idea. But, after a tour around the land with a semi-informative guide and a quick poke at the croc, we sat in the shade and enjoyed a heaping platter of bananas. Maybe that's why people go. Who would turn down a perfectly good banana?

Our boat, the Tom & Jerry

Baby bananas

Little Men

2010-02-19T16:02:00.001-06:00

Whistles, stares, and catcalls... much too young.

Regrets

2010-02-17T16:20:00.001-06:00

Sometimes it's easier to leave the baby at home...

What Not to Wear

2010-02-16T15:25:00.001-06:00

True: Egypt is hot.

False: You should wear the least amount of clothing possible when visiting Egypt, as well as, other Middle Eastern countries.

As a general rule, it is best to cover most of your arms and legs while traveling throughout the Middle East. This is beneficial in many ways as it shows a level of respect for the culture and wards off unwanted attention. We did our best to abide by this rule, especially while off the beaten path. However, temperatures in Luxor soared to an unbelievably high degree and we sometimes rolled up our pant legs and pushed up our sleeves.

Some people, however, just didn't get the memo. Wearing these outfits in the Middle East is probably, Not a Good Idea...

Well, the hat was a good idea....

It seems as though he came with a shirt, but now it's tucked into his... swimming trunks?

Can't you just feel her sunburn?

He got it half right... at least he's wearing jeans.

Peek-a-boo

Karnak Temple

2010-02-15T14:00:00.001-06:00

Karnak temple is the largest ancient religious complex in the world and the second most visited site in Egypt, after the Giza pyramids. The temple was completed over a thirteen hundred year period during which approximately thirty pharaohs contributed to its expansion and grandeur. Today, only the largest precinct is open to the public—Precinct of Amun-Re—while the others, Precinct of Montu, Precinct of Mut, and Temple of Amenhotep IV are closed.

Entrance to the Precinct of Amun-Re lined with rams

The famous Hypostyle Hall—134 massive columns in 16 rows, half at 10 meters high and the other half at 21 meters.

An Hatshepsut-shaped erasure, presumably from her nephew/husband's son, Tuthmose III.

Another missing Hatshepsut

The Obelisk of Hatshepsut is the second-tallest obelisk in the world at 97 feet. The Lateran obelisk in Rome, commissioned by Hatshepsut's nephew Tuthmose III, remains the tallest at 101 feet.

Where You Going? Part 2

2010-02-14T13:30:00.001-06:00

Remember this picture from Bangkok? The annoying tuk-tuk drivers followed us all the way to Egypt, put on a new outfit and transformed their horsepower engine into, well, actual horse power. Despite the new appearance, the old question remained...

Hey! Where you going?

Colossi of Memnon

2010-02-13T09:45:00.001-06:00

Originally constructed around 1350 BC, the two gigantic twin statutes of Pharaoh Amenhotep III stood guard at the entrance to his immense mortuary temple across the Nile from the city of Luxor. Weighing over 700 tons each, the statues are made of quartzite stone, which was transported over 400 miles from an area near the city of Cairo. Throughout the years, the mortuary temple was destroyed and the statutes themselves, run down. At one point, cracks in the statues' remains cried or whistled early in the morning when the wind blew. Many people believed the cries to be the voice of Memnon, a hero of the Trojan War, whose name means "Ruler of the Dawn." It was said good luck favored those who heard the cries causing thousands of people to flock to the statues. However, a reconstruction of the upper-half of one statue, around 199 AD, silenced them forever.

Slight reconstructions of this statue make the twins appear more fraternal than identical.

The smaller statues along Amenhotep's legs depict his mother and wife.

Valleys of the Kings & Queens

2010-02-12T13:15:00.001-06:00

Entrance to the Valley of the Kings

The Valley is surrounded by the tall Theban Hills

The Valley of the Kings, located on the west bank of the Nile in Luxor, is home to 63 burial sites of Egypt's ancient kings and powerful nobles, including King Tutankhamun, whom Nana (our spunky tour guide) apparently does not care for. Decorated in colorful hieroglyphs, the paintings depict mythological scenes and give insight into various customs of the time period. As excavations continue, only a handful of tombs are open to the public including those we saw of King Ramesses I, III, and IV.

The Valley of the Queens, located near the Valley of the Kings, was once known as Ta-Set-Neferu, meaning "the place of the children of the Pharaoh." Both the wives and children of prominent Kings were buried within the rock-cut tombs as a way to protect against robbers. Over 70 tombs exist in the valley, many of which are said to be lavishly decorated, including the famous tomb of Queen Nefertari, wife of Ramesses II. Said to be the most beautiful tomb in all the valleys, Queen Nefertari's resting place is now closed to the general public and only accessible upon governmental permission and a $4,000 entrance fee. Obviously, our budget was not that flexible so we settled on the tomb of Queen Tyti, the speculated wife of one of the many King Ramesses.

The entrance to the tomb of Queen Nefertari, a $4,000 fee.

Carved out of the wall and painted in vibrant hues, many of the hieroglyphs still remain in astonishing condition maintaining their original colors. Red, yellow, blue, and black trace their way up and down the otherwise bare walls, forming small symbols and filling in familiar drawings. Na Na informed us of the origin of each color: red came from animal's blood, yellow from a bird's egg, blue was lapis lazuli, and the ubiquitous black, used in outlining, was from smoke and ash. Common scenes depicted the deceased crossing into the afterlife accompanied by various gods. Unlike some underwhelming world wonders that do not deliver the expected show or illicit the desired response, the hieroglyphs were an exact match to the pictures I had studied so often in art history classes. The royal figures were continuously humanized as we strolled through their tombs and the mystery of ancient Egypt and its mummies came alive in a fascinating and unforgettable way.

In an effort to preserve the incredible hieroglyphic paintings, taking photos is no longer allowed inside the tombs. But, here are some examples of what the hieroglyphs depicted:

Anubis, god of judgement and the dead

Ra, god of the sun

The ankh, or "key of life," is the Egyptian hieroglyphic character representing eternal life.

The Eye of Horus is an ancient symbol of protection.

A King in a Queen's Body

2010-02-11T12:00:00.002-06:00

After a brief early morning flight to Luxor, we arrived at our hostel and planned out the first full day of immersion into the ancient city. Described as the "world's greatest open-air museum," Luxor is the prime location for mummies and mystery.

With wide eyes and a smirky grin, Nana (our fast talking, not-going-to-wait-in-line-for-anyone-else Egyptian tour guide) retold the dramatic incestral history of one of the greatest female leaders in the world—Queen Hatshepsut. Daughter of Tuthmose I (father) and Aahmes (mother), Hatshepsut was the favorite of three children. After the convenient death of Hatshepsut's two brothers, she was in position to later gain the throne. However, her father's mistress also had a son, Tuthmose II whom Hatshepsut married thus making them half-siblings and spouses. When Hatshepsut's father died, Tuthmose II ascended the throne for three to four years before dying of a skin disease. Although Tuthmose II and Hatshepsut never had children together, they each had a child with other lovers—Tuthmose II had a son named Thuthmose III while Hatshepsut gave birth to a daughter, Nofrure. Because Tuthmose III was too young to reign, Hatshepsut replaced her step-brother/husband and ascended the throne.

Borrowed from www.bediz.com.

Top row: Hatshepsut's grandparents

Second row: Hatshepsut's parents and her father's mistress, Moutnofrit

Upper Third row: Hatshepsut's brothers

Lower Third row: Hatshepsut and her husband/step-brother, Tuthmose II, along with their respective "other lovers"

Fourth row: The offspring produced by each lover

As her nephew's (Tuthmose III) resentment over the throne grew, so did Hatshepsut's popularity. To cement her position on the throne, Hatshepsut changed her image and reputation. Statues and paintings of the queen adopted a male appearance with the ubiquitous false Egyptian beard and facial features while real life imitated art as she began wearing traditional male garb. Hatshepsut's eventual appointment of Pharaoh meant she was thereafter regarded as a king rather than a queen.

Throughout her peaceful ruling she restored many of Egypt's resources and created an unprecedented amount of architecture and artwork. After her death, an attempt was made to wipe out her legacy. Most believe her nephew Tuthmose III, the son of her step-brother/husband and mistress, was responsible for the demolition of hundreds of Hatshepsut sculptures and monuments. Likewise, her name and body were often chiseled directly off the hieroglyph-painted walls, leaving a large Hatshepsut-shaped hole in their place. Adding to the work of Egyptologists, the erasures, however, did little to stain the image Hatshepsut worked so diligently to create. Today, she is still regarded as one of Egypt's most successful pharaohs and the longest reigning woman in indigenous Egyptian history.

Hatshepsut's Mortuary Temple near the Valley of the Kings.

Egypt vs. Algeria

2010-02-10T14:00:00.001-06:00

Tension mounted as team spirit swelled on November 14, 2009 when Egypt hosted Algeria in the World Cup qualifying game in Cairo. American friends were strongly advised against attending the match, and the U.S. embassy warned its citizens to stay off the streets that night. Ever since 1989's World Cup qualifying win by Egypt drove an Algerian player to gouge out the eye of an Egyptian team doctor, the two teams have been at each other's throats.

Even before the game began on the 14th, Egyptian fans attacked Algeria's bus with rocks and bricks as it transported the team from the airport to their hotel. Four players were injured and required stitches. Concerned officials, fans, and players questioned the safety of the team and demanded answers from FIFA but none were given. On the day of the game, Egyptians were in high spirits as they waved flags throughout the city and performed an ongoing symphony with their car horns.

How else would you get a flag to secure to the hood of your car?

A 2-0 win over Algeria sent fans racing to the streets as Egypt moved one step closer to World Cup victory. Car horns blared instantly as the winning goal was made and within moments, firecrackers screamed and popped throughout the night air. It was later reported that dozens of people were injured during late night skirmishes and Algerian fans demolished an Egypt Air office in Algiers by setting furniture on fire. From the safety of our friends' balcony, we listened to the chaos ensue down the road and yelled our congratulations to passersby.

The 2-0 win placed Egypt and Algeria neck and neck, and a rematch was scheduled on neutral territory, in Sudan, to settle the tie. On November 18, the day of the rematch, we waited to board our plane for Istanbul and ended up sharing a gate with a flight heading to Sudan. A sea of red engulfed the waiting area as loads of excited fans waited anxiously and chanted for their beloved home team. Several eager airport employees whispered rumors of a Sudan-bound man named, Ehab Tawfik—a famous Egyptian singer—who was on his way to the gate. Minutes later, we found ourselves posing for a picture with him, per his request. Famous Egyptian singer or four American girls... I guess fame is in the eye of the beholder. In the end, Algeria beat out Egypt in a 1-0 win and secured a spot in the highly coveted World Cup match in South Africa, summer 2010.

The famous Ehab Tawfik, and apparently equally famous four American girls. Although the picture is off-center, it's quite an accomplishment considering the previous attempts found the photographer holding the camera backwards. An up-close photo of his iris would not have been the same.

......................

Egyptian pride overflowed onto the highways in Cairo the day of the first World Cup qualifying match. Check out the video for a dose of team spirit:

Cave Church

2010-02-09T16:29:00.020-06:00

At the end of Garbage City's winding unmarked roads, tucked away in the Muqattam Hills, is a series of caves containing seven churches and chapels of the Monastery of St. Simon the Tanner. Carved directly from the rock, the Coptic Christian churches are a unique example of the faith and dedication of the zabaleen people.

Virgin Mary and St. Simon Cathedral

The main cave in the monastery, Virgin Mary and St. Simon Cathedral, is dedicated to the story of Simon the Tanner and the Muqattam Mountain. According to Coptic sayings, in 979 A.D. a dispute between Pope Abram and a Jew named Jacob Ibn Killis erupted over a well-known verse in the Bible.

"I tell you the truth, if you have faith as small as a mustard seed,

you can say to this mountain, 'Move from here to there' and it will move.

Nothing will be impossible for you."

-Matthew 17:20

Jacob Ibn Killis challenged Pope Abram to prove the validity of his religion using this verse. Upon hearing this, Caliph Al-Muizz (the Muslim head of state) agreed to the challenge and threatened Pope Abram's life if the task was not carried out. As the story goes, after three days of prayer and fasting by the people, the Holy Virgin appeared to Pope Abram and told him a man named Simon the Tanner would carry out the task. So, Pope Abram, with the help of Simon, cried out to God three times while making the sign of the cross, then an earthquake shook the ground and the mountain was lifted.

The outside entrance of the cathedral

Partially open to the sky above, the cave cathedral seats 5,000 people.

Church of St. Bola

Across the street, a smaller St. Bola's church bears the black-walled scars of a survivor. Named for the Pilgrim, St. Bola, the humble church was nearly destroyed after an electric spark created a fire, which engulfed the interior in 1992.

Fire damage is evident by the black ceiling and walls.

St. Simon the Tanner's Hall

The huge cave of St. Simon the Tanner's Hall was discovered full of oversized rocks in 1979. After years of clearing the rubble, the cave was designed as a meeting hall and now seats an impressive 2,000 people.

The entrance to St. Simon's Hall

A Diamond in the Rough

2010-02-08T17:42:00.011-06:00

Deep within Garbage City, around corners and down seemingly unmarked streets stands a gate. Behind the gate, a street noticeably absent of trash and debris meanders down a hill and continues past an important but modest building. A recycling center. For women.

Set up as a way to help women of the Garbage City community make a living, the recycling center teaches them to reuse and refurbish donated cloth and paper. From hand-made Christmas cards to woven rugs and bags, the center offers the women not only valuable life skills, but also a renewed sense of purpose and hope for a successful future.

photo by Melissa W.

Tubs used to make paper for greeting cards

photo by Melissa W.

Finished paper hanging out to dry

photo by Melissa W.

Garbage City

2010-02-07T17:31:00.011-06:00

Known as Garbage City, Manshiyat naser is an area of Cairo home to mostly Coptic Christians and a growing Muslim population. Each day, zabaleen (Arabic for garbage collectors) collect one-third of Cairo's garbage, about 4,500 tons, and bring it back to their homes in Garbage City where it is sorted by men, women, and children. The remainder of the city's trash is dumped in the streets, alleyways, and building corners where dogs, cats, and goats scavenge it for food.

After sorting the trash, recyclables such as glass, aluminum, and paper are sold to small factories that prepare the items to be reused or resold again. Food waste was once fed to pigs, which were then sold for their meat—a way of living that ostracized the Christian zabaleen from their Muslim neighbors. However, after the outbreak of H1N1, Egypt ordered the mandatory slaughter of all pigs in an effort to prevent the disease within national borders; which created a hard blow to the already miniscule income of Garbage City's residents.

Despite the health risks, laborious work, and lack of governmental support, the zabaleen recycle 85% of the trash they collect—a high rate by any standards, but even more impressive considering their simplistic methods.

"They have created what is arguably one of the world's most efficient resource-recovery and waste recycling-systems."

-Wael Salah Fahmi,

Professor of Architecture and Urban Design at Helwan University in Cairo

Old Cairo

2010-02-05T11:43:00.016-06:00

A stained-glass window inside the Hanging Church

The oldest area in Cairo dates back to the 6th century B.C. and is often referred to today as Coptic Cairo because of its large number of early Christian churches. Of the original 20 Christian churches, only 5 remain, but they are considered a must-see for any traveler visiting the city. The word coptic is derived from the Arab word Gibt, which literally means Egyptians. Therefore, Coptic Christians are merely, Egyptian Christians.

Hanging Church

Located on the top of the southern tower gate of the Babylon fortress, the nave of the Hanging Church is suspended above the passageway, thus giving it its name. Built in the 7th century and dedicated to St. Mary, today it is the most famous Coptic Christian church in Cairo.

The curved, wooden ceiling is a tribute to Noah's Ark.

Fortress of Babylon

A series of walls and towers built by the Romans, which are now part of several churches in the area.

Church of St. George

The Greek Orthodox church of St. George was originally constructed in the 10th century but rebuilt in 1904 after a fire destroyed the structure. Built atop the foundation of an old Roman tower, St. George is the only round church in Egypt.

Greek Orthodox Cemetery

Ben Ezra Synagogue

Originally a Christian church, Ben Ezra Synagogue was purchased by the Jews in 882 A.D. in order for the Coptic Christians to pay the annual taxes imposed by the Muslims. The current building, erected in 1892, is a replica of the collapsed original.

Apparently, I didn't get a photo of the synagogue. I borrowed this one from sacred-destinations.com.

Amr Ibn El-Aas Mosque

Erected in 642 A.D., Amr Ibn El-Aas Mosque is the first and oldest mosque in Egypt. Because of our female non-Muslim status, we were unable to enter the mosque or pass by the guards at the gate. Obviously the mosque is not part of Coptic Christian Cairo, but it is within walking-distance to the other churches and considered part of Old Cairo.

Shop 'Til You Drop

2010-02-04T18:29:00.008-06:00

Cairo's most famous souk (market), Khan el-Khalili overflows with enough treasures to satisfy even the most insatiable shopper. Baskets of seeds and spices perch next to brightly colored scarves. Alabaster bowls balance precariously on shelves while camel bone carved trinkets intrigue shoppers who brave the winding back alleys. Each jagged turn offers the possibility of undiscovered treasure and many shop owners extend unfulfilled promises of discounted items, freebies, and marriage proposals.

Egyptian man: Hey, Spice Girls! Good prices for you.

Us: Did he just say Spice Girls?

Egyptian: You from Australia, I know. You marry me. I love you forever.

Us: La shukran... No, thank you.

*all photos by Andrea Gregory

Museum of Egyptian Antiquities

2010-02-04T15:08:00.012-06:00

The Egyptian Museum in Cairo is home to the most impressive collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts in the world. From old coins to mysterious mummies, the museum is a one-stop shop despite its unorganized layout. Unfortunately, we were stripped of our cameras before entering the building and forced to leave with perishable mental pictures.

Although the museum has 27 royal mummies in the Royal Mummy Room, only 9 are currently on display, including the recently discovered body of King/Queen Hatshepsut. But, what the museum is probably most famous for is its collection of King Tutankhamun artifacts. Decorative jewelry, alabaster vases, flasks, and royal weapons are just the beginning of the ostentatious valuables. His sarcophagus and well-known mummy mask, the Gold Mask, made of 24.5 pounds of solid gold, are the crowning highlights on display.

The Gold Mask, which rested over the bandages that covered King Tut's face.

King Tut's sarcophagus

A golden collar found on King Tut's body, which was used as a protective amulet rather than for decoration.

Not to be missed is the room of mummified animals. Peculiarly well-preserved dogs, cats, gazelles, monkeys, cows, and even a crocodile line the perimeter and bear testimony to the ancient Egyptians' reverence for the afterlife. Why bury a dog when you can mummify it for future eternal enjoyment?

All photographs below were taken by Richard Barnes for National Geographic.

Pharaoh's best friend

A queen's gazelle

Mummified cat to the left of its wooden cat-shaped coffin

A cuddly pet baboon

Don't Touch the Water

2010-02-02T15:25:00.001-06:00

A cruise down the Nile River is a relaxing experience, especially after a full day of Cairo's chaos. As the longest river in the world, the 4,184 mile long Nile flows through ten different countries in Africa including: Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Rwanda, Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Eritrea, and Kenya. The north-flowing river ends in northern Egypt where it empties into the Mediterranean Sea. Because of pollution, the waters in Egypt are considered extremely dirty and we were advised several times not to touch the river.

I have two things to say about this picture:

1. Of course there is a TGI Fridays on the bank of the Nile River!

2. If you ask someone where Moses was found they might point here, or over there, or there, or there. Nobody knows for sure but if there are reeds then it's a "possibility."

Not the Boxer

2010-02-01T13:30:00.001-06:00

An announcement was made regarding whose mosque we were visiting and instantly my eyebrows furrowed and an invisible question-mark floated above my head. Five more confused faces scrunched up down the line and finally someone said what we were all thinking, "This is Muhammad Ali's mosque? But, not the boxer, right?"

Muhammad Ali Pasha, considered by many to be the founder of modern Egypt, ruled the country in combination with his family and descendants for 147 years. He died in 1849 and was buried in the mosque he commissioned in the Citadel of Cairo.

If you look closely you can see two of the three Giza pyramids through the dense smog.

Delivery!

2010-01-31T11:20:00.003-06:00

Every restaurant in Cairo delivers.

Wait, I meant to say, EVERY RESTAURANT IN CAIRO DELIVERS!

Feel like Hardee's but just can't deal with the ridiculous traffic in Cairo? Order delivery.

Just got a spur of the moment craving for a milkshake from Burger King? Order delivery.

Want some Egyptian food but you don't have a kitchen? Order delivery.

Never want to leave your house again? That's okay! Order delivery.

Fast food, local food, exotic food, any food. Delivery.

Just imagine what would happen to people in America if every restaurant delivered....

Giza Necropolis

2010-01-30T09:15:00.001-06:00

The Great Sphinx in front of the Pyramid of Khafre

There they stood—the Pyramids of Giza—right in front of us and guarded by the Great Sphinx. After learning about them in school, reading about them in books, and watching them on TV it was hard to believe I was experiencing them in person. It was also slightly confusing. In photographs and through the world of media they always appear to rise out of the desert—alone in the vastness of sand and heat only to be visited by Bedouins on camelback. But in reality, they sit within an uncomfortably close proximity to modern Cairo. Hop out of your taxi and walk a few meters to the base of the Sphinx. Shop in the market and catch a glimpse of the towering Ancient Wonders between shops. Or, even better, marvel at the trio from the comfort of an air-conditioned table inside Pizza Hut—the best indoor view of the pyramids in town.

What... have... we (modern people)... done?

The Giza Necropolis comprises several monuments including the three Great Pyramids, the Great Sphinx, a handful of queens' tombs, funerary temples, and the cemeteries for the skilled laborers (although the Greeks still maintain that the pyramids were built by slaves, modern-day Egyptologists agree skilled laborers were hired for the immense job). The oldest and largest pyramid, known as the Great Pyramid, was built for fourth dynasty Egyptian Pharaoh Khufu. Completed around 2551 BC, its base is almost perfectly square and level. Originally 146 meters tall, it was the tallest structure in the world for over 3,800 years until the 160-meter-tall spire of Lincoln Cathedral in Lincolnshire, England popped up.

The Pyramid of Khafre is the second largest in the necropolis and the tomb of Khufu's son. Its steep slope and elevated base enhance the illusion of its size and impressiveness, but the pyramid still ranks as number two. Unlike Khafre, Khufu does not cheat.

The third, and smallest, of the three pyramids belonged to Menkaure. Allegedly much more benevolent than his predecessors, the Pharaoh's pyramid acts as the understated underdog. In the twelfth century Malek Abd al-Aziz Othman ben Yusuf attempted to demolish the three pyramids beginning with Menkaure's tomb. He and his friends worked for eight months at removing the gargantuan stones but only successfully took down one or two per day. Realizing their attempts were futile and expensive, they abandoned the idea and left the pyramid with a large vertical gash in its side. Way to go.

Reclining in front of Khafre's pyramid is the largest monolith statue in the world and the oldest monumental sculpture—the Great Sphinx. Having the head of a man and the body of a lion, some speculate it was created by Khafre in his image. However, exactly when it was built, who built it, and who it depicts round out the mysteries of the "Riddle of the Sphinx."

Before waving goodbye to the necropolis, we had the opportunity to descend inside one of the queens' pyramids. The tiny opening required a reduction in height and we walked down the narrow ramp doubled over. At the end of the tunnel we emptied into a small, stifling room—once the location of the sarcophagus. The temperature soared beyond uncomfortable and as people continued to file in we decided to make our escape. When we finally returned to the surface, the sun's rays felt cool in comparison to the thick heat inside the pyramid and I thought a cold soda from Pizza Hut didn't sound so bad.

From left to right: Pyramid of Menkaure, Pyramid of Khafre, Pyramid of Khufu (The Great Pyramid).

In front of the Pyramid of Khafre

Sitting on the Pyramid of Khufu (The Great Pyramid)

Egyptian Road Trip

2010-01-27T13:17:00.004-06:00

After an afternoon of scuba diving we loaded our belongings into a chartered van and settled in for the nine hour drive to Cairo. The hostel owners made sure we were comfortable with the male driver and informed us of our right to request another escort. We declined and hoped for the best. Feeling woozy from sucking oxygen through a regulator all afternoon, I quickly needed a few Dramamine pills to combat the onset of motion sickness brought on by the winding mountain roads. Slipping in and out of sleep, I only noticed a few check-points but was later informed we stopped between 8 and 9 times throughout the night. Apparently, each stop was a nerve-wracking experience as Egyptian guards peered inside the vehicle and questioned the driver about our non-existent chaperone.

Nine hours later we all breathed a sigh of relief as we pulled into Cairo and located the friends we were bunking with. I'm not sure what potential dangers we dodged that evening, but I will assume we were always safe and consider it another adventure on our now extremely long list.

Dahab, Egypt

2010-01-27T12:10:00.009-06:00

Located on the Sinai Peninsula, Dahab is an old fishing village turned diver's paradise. Its position on the Red Sea offers travelers the opportunity to lose themselves among the waves at an affordable price and hundreds of visitors appeared to be taking an indefinite vacation from life.

Initially, our plan was to arrive in Egypt, check into the hostel and enjoy a mid-day rest before heading out at 11 pm to hike up Mt. Sinai. However, a full day of border crossings with an intense hike through Petra the day before left us feeling drained and we reluctantly crossed Mt. Sinai's sunrise experience off the to-do list—a decision I still somewhat regret. Instead, we opted for a full night's sleep and a morning of scuba diving in the Red Sea.

After a quick mini lesson on the use of a regulator and tips on how to clear a face mask under water, we entered the depths of the sea. As it turns out, scuba diving is terrifying. Breathing through a regulator encourages panic and it required a substantial amount of mental reassurance and personal pep talks to not suck up all of my oxygen at once. I never mastered the face mask water removal technique during our short lesson and was out of luck during the dive. Apparently, the sea was full of fascinating coral and exotic fish. I wouldn't know.

In the end, I determined the ocean is too big for my personal exploration and I am perfectly happy to snorkel or swim at depths that do not require substantial artificial breathing apparatuses. I also prefer to pop out of the water whenever I fancy without worrying about getting a case of the bends.

Not the most glamorous picture but proof that we did squeeze into wet suits in order to experience terrifying underwater adventures.

3 Countries in 1 Day

2010-01-11T23:50:00.000-06:00

After discussing our options with several people, we found most agreed that traveling to Egypt from Jordan was best done via land. It was supposedly easy to do and hassle free; plus, it was cheaper than purchasing a plane ticket.

Our route:

1. From Aqaba in Jordan, we purchased our Egyptian visas, which were stamped into our passports.

2. Already stuffed into the borrowed truck, we picked up a friend along the way who could drop us at the border and return our vehicle to its owner. We packed 7 people into a 5 passenger truck.

3. Upon arriving at the Jordan/Israel border we were met by several armed border patrolmen who inquired about the number of passengers in our truck and why the ratio was 1 man to 6 women—a red flag in the Middle East. Some quick smooth talking momentarily confused the patrolmen and we continued on our way.

4. From inside the checkpoint we unloaded from the truck with our luggage and made our way to the border office where we paid the exit tax to leave Jordan.

5. Then we walked across the border.

6. Welcome to Israel! We were immediately lined up so our bags could be x-rayed just like at the security gate in the airport. At this point I wondered if it would be a problem to bring the souvenir knife I bought for my dad into the country. The sign clearly said, No Weapons. After passing my bag through the x-ray machine, a woman met me at the conveyor belt and asked me to unpack.... She inspected a few things and re-ran my bag back through the machine before allowing me to pass. My knife, secure in the second bag, was apparently not a concern.

7. After security, we paid our Israeli entrance fee and hopped into a taxi bound for the Israel/Egypt border.

8. Our Israeli driver was happy to take us on our way and sang loudly along with the radio. The view out the taxi window offered little insight into the country's culture and within twenty minutes we arrived at the next border crossing.

9. Again, we were dropped off outside the gate where we paid a fee to leave Israel and then walked on through to Egypt.

10. Welcome to Egypt! We filled out a health form, checked no for swine flu, and dumped our bags on the conveyor belt for another security screening. Once again, I hoped the knife wasn't a problem. No one said a word.

11. Everything went through without problems and we continued on to the visa checkpoint, where we paid another entrance fee, before exiting out into the not-so-fresh Egyptian air.

Unlike the Israeli border, Egypt does not provide a service for calling taxis. There was no woman in uniform ready to request a driver for six girls. No, we had to fend for ourselves against the pack of chaotic drivers hungry for business. With no other option but to attempt negotiations with the aggressive men, we made our way to their noisy corner. But, within seconds we realized they had the upper hand. The nearest busy road was who knows how far away and our only option was to go with one of them—despite how much they were prepared to overcharge. We attempted negotiation, but they didn't budge. We even did the walk away, but they knew we had nowhere to walk so they just watched us huddle alongside the curb. Luckily, Kacy contacted the hotel and was notified they had sent a driver to pick us up. His name was Mousafa.

Us: Where is Mousafa?

All of them: I'm Mousafa! No, I'm Mousafa! Come with me!

Us: ???????

After several chaotic moments and a lot of arguing, we identified the real Mousafa and he led us to his van; which caused a small riot among the other drivers as they watched their business walk away. Twenty intense minutes and one or two police officers later, we were on our way....

Last Few Hours in Jordan

2010-01-08T23:00:00.001-06:00

The day came to make our way out of Jordan and into Egypt. It was going to be a long day of traveling across borders through three different countries and our anticipation was mounting. After saying goodbye to Amman several days ago, we bid our farewells to Wadi Musa and Petra, too, and then headed south to the coastal town of Aqaba. Famous for its diving and beach resorts, Aqaba also contains a border post into Israel. However, before crossing the border there were a few things we needed to do first: purchase our Egyptian visas, eat at McDonalds, meet another machine gun topped truck with an angry driver, and catch a glimpse of the Red Sea.

Purchasing a visa for any country can take an unexpected amount of time, but doing so in the Middle East seems to guarantee things won't go as planned. The consulate was empty and our presence blindingly obvious. The man behind the window at the counter seemed bothered with our request for Egyptian visas but didn't appear very busy. After sorting out our intentions and taking advantage of my friend's Arabic speaking abilities, he informed us they would be ready in nearly three hours. I assumed it would take him two hours and forty-five minutes to procrastinate, ten minutes to process the visas, and another five to use the bathroom before we returned.

After refueling at McDonald's my friend suggested surveying our close proximity to Saudi Arabia. A photo of the mile marker sign only a few kilometers from the border would make an excellent souvenir and I was excited to add another picture of a border country to my collection. Nearing the intended sign, we passed a group of military men jogging alongside the road. Closing in on the border increased both the level of excitement and tension in the truck, and when we found the sign we hopped out to snap a photo. However, before we even removed our lens caps the group of joggers, now at an uncomfortably close distance, began hollering and waving their arms. Uh oh.

We quickly turned around, hopped in the truck, and drove off. Within two minutes an armed truck pulled up alongside us with the passenger hanging out the window, flagging us to pull over. Oh, geez. Here we go again. After reassuring them we were not photographing their jogging squad, we were informed it is not okay to take pictures of signs. At least, not signs in that particular area, I guess. Okay, it won't happen again.

A few miles down the road, we saw another sign and slowed down enough for me to hang out the window and snap a photo.

Before picking up our passports and leaving the country, we made a quick stop at the Red Sea. The crystal clear water made it easy to spot various fish and several eels beneath the surface, and it's obvious why Aqaba attracts large numbers of scuba divers year round.

On to Egypt...

Finally... a picture of a sign

A beach along the Red Sea

Even while swimming women are expected to maintain modesty. The level of modesty depends on their husbands or families.

Dinner Party

2010-01-07T10:57:00.006-06:00

After a long day at Petra, we were invited to dinner at a friend's house. The family prepared a traditional Jordanian meal of chicken, rice, and vegetables called, Maqluva. In typical fashion, they arranged a monstrous tray of food, which we circled around on the floor and shared family-style. A plastic sheet below the food made clean up effortless and we were able to enjoy learning more about the culture from an insider's perspective.

Dessert—hot tea/coffee and cookies

The food in Jordan and throughout the Middle East is delicious and quite different from the East Asian cuisine I had been eating the past year. In addition to the Maqluva above, we enjoyed several other dishes, including:

Shwarma: Meat (chicken or beef) shaved off an oversized kabob and placed in a pita with vegetables, french fries, falafel, and mystery mayonnaise.

Falafel: Fried chickpeas in a ball or patty shape

Hummus: Chickpeas and Tahini dip served with pita

Lamb

Goat cheese

(All pictures courtesy of Melissa W.)

Petra

2010-01-06T18:45:00.001-06:00

Petra, meaning rock, lies at the slope of Mt. Hor south of Amman on the outskirts of Wadi Musa, Valley of Moses. Established in the 6th century BC as the capital city of the Nabataeans, it is currently the most visited site in Jordan and became one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007, in addition to its claim as a World Heritage site in 1985.

If that doesn't jog your memory, think of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. Remember how Harrison Ford found the Holy Grail inside that huge building carved out of a rock? Yep, that's the Treasury, part of the ancient city of Petra. Aside from Indiana Jones, Moses also visited the area with the Israelites and it is there where he struck a rock with his staff to extract water. His brother, Aaron, is also buried atop Mount Hor.

Entering Petra from the Eastern side is the most popular and rewarding option. A half-mile hike, or donkey ride, leads you to the entrance of the Siq—probably the most theatrical gorge in the world. Formed after tectonic forces split the rock in half, the sandstone Siq gained its character from the waters and wind of Wadi Musa, which blew through the gap and rounded the rocky corners. As you gain ground on the one mile walk through the Siq, the rock walls push in and out, contracting like a lung. Vibrant hues of red and brown intensify with each ray of sunlight as the path opens up and deepen in the shadows when corners close in. Bracing at each turn, you know something special is near. Just when your intrigue peaks, you catch a glimpse of something bright as if someone has turned on a spotlight. The shadows are banned from going any farther and you know it's here.... the Treasury.

The half-mile before the Siq

Entering the mile long Siq

A glimpse of something spectacular

The Treasury

Forty meters high and carved entirely from the rock face, the Treasury rewards each visitor after their hike through the Siq—just as the Nabataeans intended. Although its purpose is unknown, most archaeologists believe it was used as a temple or tomb. Due to its misnomer, however, many Bedouins believed the urn at the top to be full of treasure; and in an effort to release the valuables, they pumped it full of bullets. Unfortunately, no treasure was found and the bullet holes, clearly visible from the ground, add an unnecessary modern-day touch.

Although astonishing, the Treasury is far from the end of Petra. Beyond the impressive carving, the cliffs open up to allow expansive views of the surrounding mountainsides. Cave dwellings are clearly visible at different levels and the image of life among the rocks is better understood.

Once living within Petra, the Bedouin tribes today reside in government assisted homes just outside the enchanting ruins in a semi-controversial effort to preserve it. However, they still spend most of their time within Petra in order to make a living guiding tours, giving camel or donkey rides, and selling souvenirs. Referring to their animals as air-conditioned taxis, it's easy to see most of them love spending time with tourists and simply working among one of the most spectacular sites in the world.

Cave homes

Beautiful stone

Air-conditioned taxis

Over an hour hike from the Treasury stands the almost equally impressive Monastery. Larger in size but lacking in the ornamentation of the Treasury, the Monastery was most likely used by the Nabataeans as a temple. Climbing the steep path to the left of the Monastery is unadvisable, but local kids enjoy playing on the steep carving, even hopping from one peak to the next—probably not a good idea.

Petra's immense size offers new discoveries the more one visits, but the heat and dry air quickly deflated our urge to continue on much longer. Before turning back, there was just one more thing we had to see—the view of the end of the world, according to the sign.

Hiking toward the Monastery

The Monastery

Overlooking the end of the world with a conspicuous nod to Keen.

After several hours of exploration, hiking, photographing, and sweating; we decided to call it a day and head back. But, in the interest of time, entertainment, and just because we could; we hitched a ride on one of the Bedouin's air-conditioned taxis...

Dead Sea

2010-01-05T23:40:00.001-06:00

At 1,385 ft. below sea level, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on Earth. It is 8.6 times more salty than the ocean with 33.7% salinity; and is the deepest hypersaline lake in the world at 1,240 ft. deep. Because of its salinity, the Dead Sea cannot support plant or animal life but at times has sustained certain types of bacteria.

The salt and minerals found in the sea are thought to provide healing powers and are often used in cosmetics and lotions. Used long ago as a health resort by Herod the Great, it is now a popular location for health spas and resorts, including the Marriott—which seems to have a resort in every city of the world.

Taking a swim in the Dead Sea is a strange experience as the salt in the water creates incredible buoyancy. Floating takes minimal to no effort and it's possible to do a sloppy sit-up without sinking. On the downside, any exposed cut is subject to extreme stinging and it's clear a little salt in the wound goes a long way. But, the burning is worth the strange weightless sensation and after a good scrub in the shower your skin is back to normal.

In addition to the foam from waves, the white stuff on the shore is also salt buildup.

Easily floating while nearly sitting upright.

Amman Citadel & Roman Theater

2010-01-04T18:00:00.000-06:00

Known as Jabal al-Qal'a in Arabic, the 40 acre L-shaped Citadel is situated atop one of Amman's original seven hills and surrounded by deep wadis (valleys) on all sides except the north. Used for protection by the Ammonites during Biblical times, the citadel is the location of David's attack and likely the site of Uriah's death (2 Samuel 11). Today, the site is undergoing continuous excavation and is now home to the first national Archaeological Museum. Its position high above the city offers expansive views and quiet respite.

Temple of Hercules

Constructed in the mid-2nd century AD, Amman's amphitheater is one of 125 Roman theaters worldwide, 13 of which are located in Jordan. Originally built by the Greeks, the theater was much smaller because they relied solely on hillsides for support. However, it was later remodeled by the Romans into what it is today using more modern architectural techniques including arches for side support. The theater seats 6,000 people and is now a popular hang out for tourists and random Amman residents.

View of the stage

At the top—it was a very scary climb for someone wary of heights.... me!

Oops!

2010-01-03T12:40:00.004-06:00

While driving around Amman and taking in the sites, we rolled up to the US Embassy. Considering it a home away from home, a couple girls decided to take a picture. Why not? We were already photographing everything in sight. So, we pulled the truck over, rolled down the window, aimed the camera.... and came face to face with several guards shoved into an even larger truck topped with a machine gun.

"No pictures! No pictures!" they barked.

"Uh oh...."

The intimidating truck pulled a quick U-Turn and made its way over to our van ready to shoot us full of questions. Where are you from? What are you doing in Jordan? Where is your camera? We handed over the iphone, which posed no problem for the guard as he navigated his way over buttons and through files. After a few minutes, enough time to probably check his e-mail, he handed it back and reminded us that pictures were off limits.

So began the first joke of the trip.... "Are you sure we can take a picture of that?"

Chicks Trip Kick Off in Amman

2010-01-03T09:57:00.008-06:00

Five days after arriving in Jordan, a few other friends joined us and our annual Chicks Trip officially began. Welcome to Amman, ladies!

Amman's Colors

Early Afternoon

Late Afternoon

Sunset

Night

(photo courtesy of Melissa)

A few random facts about Amman:

1. Now a city of 2 million, Amman was first inhabited during the Neolithic period, around 8500 BC.

2. Once under the rule of Ptolemy II Philadelphus of Egypt, Amman's former name was Philadelphia.

3. Around 326 AD Christianity was the city's main religion.

4. Sometimes referred to as The City of Seven Hills, Amman has expanded to nineteen hills.

5. Residents enjoy four seasons throughout the year and even experience snow fall each winter.

6. Amman is one of the most liberal cities in the Middle East and more westernized than Cairo.

7. Jordanians experience freedom of worship and are not required to dress in a particular way, including wearing a veil (although most Muslim women always wear one).

8. Amman has two sister cities in the U.S.— Miami, Florida and Chicago, Illinois.

Jerash, Jordan

2010-01-02T11:22:00.011-06:00

Located 30 miles north of Amman, near Syria, is the ancient Greco-Roman city of Jerash—often referred to as the "Pompeii of the Middle East" for its level of preservation, immense size, and extent of excavation. However, unlike Pompeii, Jerash was not buried beneath the ash of a volcanic eruption. As one of the most important and best preserved Roman cities in the Near East, it was once part of the Decapolis and inhabited as early as the Bronze Age in 3200-1200 BC.

After conquering by Rome in 63 BC, Jerash flourished through the 1st and 2nd centuries AD while enjoying peace and security. In the 3rd century it was reborn as a Christian city under Byzantine rule and the addition of 7 churches rounded out its cityscape. However, Persian invasion in 614 AD and Muslim capture in 635 ignited a rapid decline, which put the city to rest after an earthquake in 749 AD destroyed much of what was left.

Since 1920, the ancient city of Jerash has been continuously excavated and restored leading to an impressive site rich with history and the remnants of a past life.

Hadrian's Arch, south side entrance

Hippodrome—home to chariot races and sporting events

South Gate—part of the 4th century AD city wall

Inside the Oval Plaza

The Oval Plaza measures 90 x 80 meters and is surrounded by 1st-century Ionic columns

The stage in the amphitheater near the Temple of Zeus

Seating within the amphitheater

A random performance of Amazing Grace

Old Jerash meets New Jerash

Pieces of old columns stack up precariously to create a new one

The column and broken stone graveyard

Bethany Beyond the Jordan

2010-01-01T10:30:00.013-06:00

And so John came, baptizing in the desert region and preaching a baptism of repentance for the forgiveness of sins. The whole Judean countryside and all the people of Jerusalem went out to him. Confessing their sins, they were baptized by him in the Jordan River.

John wore clothing made of camel's hair, with a leather belt around his waist, and he ate locusts and wild honey. And this was his message: "After me will come one more powerful than I, the thongs of whose sandals I am not worthy to stoop down and untie. I baptize you with water, but he will baptize you with the Holy Spirit."

At that time Jesus came from Nazareth in Galilee and was baptized by John in the Jordan. As Jesus was coming up out of the water, he saw heaven being torn open and the Spirit descending on him like a dove. And a voice came from heaven: "You are my Son, whom I love; with you I am well pleased."

--Mark 1:4-11

Considered one of the most important finds in Biblical archaeology, Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan is believed to be the site of Jesus' baptism by John and the area where the Prophet Elijah ascended into Heaven (2 Kings 2:5-18). After examining multiple historical accounts in which several churches were mentioned, archaeologists uncovered an astonishing 21 ancient sites. Most excavations, however, were not carried out until 1996 following the 1994 Peace Treaty between Israel and Jordan and two subsequent years of clearing land mines along the border.

Although the ruins do not date back to Christ's time, most scholars believe this is the Biblical location of Bethany-beyond-the-Jordan; and the majority agree Jesus was not baptized on the west bank of Israel, contrary to some opinions. In 2000, the Armenian church officially declared the site to be the location of Jesus' baptism and Pope John Paul II held an outdoor mass for 25,000 worshippers.

Today, people from all over the world make their way to the different sites in order to catch a glimpse at what may be the exact scene of Jesus' baptism, if not a general location of where it happened. Because much of the Jordan River is used upstream by both Israel and Jordan, it has been reduced to a muddy stream without the flow of heavy currents. Its position as nearly the lowest point on Earth means temperatures soar to 113 degrees Fahrenheit most days, except during winter.

In addition to viewing the river itself, pilgrims to the site can arrange religious ceremonies at any of the various baptism pools. The local gift shops at the site's entrance sell white robes if people prefer to outwardly commemorate the occasion. However, we toured the sites alongside a Russian family who chose to enter the muddy Jordan River itself with their crisp white robes. If I could send them a letter, it would read something like this:

Dear family who wore white robes,

The muddy water made them transparent.

We all saw everything.

Perhaps you should've worn a swim suit underneath.

Sorry,

The other people in your tour group

A map of the Church of John the Baptist. Some people believe the actual site of Jesus' baptism to be located at the bottom of the map near the arch, where the river splits.

7th-century Church of John the Baptist. From the map, the arch (and location of Jesus' baptism) would've been located near the end of the stairs in the forefront of the photo.

The Jordan River today—the Israeli border is directly across the water.

Unfortunately, my foot was caked in a thin layer of mud after dipping it into the river and subsequently targeted by flies.

New Orthodox Church of St. John the Baptist

A Beautifully Atypical Day

2009-12-27T23:19:00.008-06:00

One of my favorite experiences on the trip occurred in a cave.

One minute we're visiting a few Bedouins and joking (in Arabic) about the love-life of cats while watching satellite TV; and the next we're being serenaded to a traditional Bedouin tune by the same men who are surprisingly serious about their on-screen appearances.

The only thing typical about this day was the hospitality and kindness of the Bedouin men... and the fact that many caves have satellite TV.

The Bedouin people are a "predominately desert dwelling Arab ethnic group previously nomadic, currently mostly settled."

Shobak Castle

2009-12-27T11:58:00.009-06:00

Although not as popular and well-preserved as Kerak Castle, we spent a couple more hours exploring the ruins of Shobak Castle because we could... it wasn't closed yet. The Crusader castle, built in 1115, stands high above the barren land below creating a feeling of isolation lacking at Kerak. After successfully warding off attacks, it finally fell under siege in 1189.

Finding a geocache hidden in the rubble

Arabic graffiti carved into the wall

It was extremely windy high atop the hill!

Looking a little National Geographic

Islamic Call To Prayer

2009-12-26T22:18:00.004-06:00

The Islamic adhan, or call to prayer, is recited in Arabic 5 times each day by the muezzin who are chosen by the mosque because of their good character, voice, and skills. The main purpose of the call to prayer is to inform everyone, both Muslim believers and non-believers, of Islam's main beliefs and spiritual ideology. Upon hearing the call, Muslims are expected to stop what they are doing and carry out their prayers in a mosque or prayer room. Only men may enter mosques, but prayer rooms separated by men and women can be found in various establishments including airports, restaurants, and large stores.

Because the call to prayer is recited over loud speakers from the minaret of every mosque—and there are dozens of mosques around each corner—the enchanting sound appears to rise above the city and swirl hypnotically through the air before dipping down into every ear whether awake or asleep.

When do Muslims pray?

1. Before sunrise

2. After midday

3. Mid afternoon

4. Sunset

5. Evening

A translation of the Sunni Islam prayer, or Salah:

God is the greatest.

I bear witness that there is no deity except God.

I bear witness that Muhammad is the messenger of God.

Make haste towards worship.

Come to the true success.

Prayer is better than sleep.**

God is the greatest.

There is no deity except God.

** The line, "prayer is better than sleep," is used only in the first prayers of the day at dawn.

Meet Jordan's Royal Family

2009-12-26T16:44:00.009-06:00

King Abdullah II

Born in 1962.

He is the 43rd direct descendent of Muhammad.

Married Queen Rania in 1993.

Ascended the throne in 1999.

He attended Deerfield Academy in Massachusetts.

He enjoys sky diving, rally racing, and scuba diving.

Queen Rania

Born in 1970.

Born in Kuwait to Palestinian parents.

Pursued a career in banking and once worked at Citibank in Jordan.

She met the King at a dinner party in 1993 and they were married 5 months later.

She enjoys jogging and baking chocolate chip cookies.

The Family

King Abdullah II

Queen Rania

Prince Hussein, 1994

Princess Iman, 1996

Princess Salma, 2000

Prince Hashem, 2005

King Abdullah II and South Korean President Lee Myung-Bak!

King Abdullah II loves Star Trek and appeared in a non-speaking role on the episode, "Investigations," in 1996.

Kerak Castle

2009-12-26T11:33:00.006-06:00

Located on the old King's Highway, Kerak was once the capital of the Biblical kingdom of Moab. It was also home to the Nabateans, Romans, and Byzantines before the Crusaders began construction of their castle in the 1140s. Strategically located between Egypt and Syria during the Ottoman period, Kerak Castle also became the most important fortress between Jerusalem and Aqaba as it was a single day's journey from one fort to the next. At night, each fortress lit a beacon to inform Jerusalem it was safe from attack. Kerak resisted invasion several times, but finally fell after an assault in 1189. Today, the percentage of Christians in Kerak City is among the highest in Jordan.

We arrived late, as the castle was closing, and were initially denied entrance; but after some eyelash batting and smooth Arabic talking by a friend, we were allowed 10 quick minutes to look around the perimeter. Maybe next time....

Random fact: Kerak's twin city is Birmingham, Alabama

Merry Christmas!

2009-12-24T16:12:00.006-06:00

A year later and it's still adorable...

Merry Christmas everyone!

Afternoon Drive in Jordan

2009-12-24T12:57:00.004-06:00

Are you sleeping?

Love is color blind.

Mount Nebo

2009-12-21T13:45:00.012-06:00

Then Moses climbed Mt. Nebo from the plains of Moab to the top of Pisgah, across from Jericho. There the Lord showed him the whole land—from Gilead to Dan, all of Naphtali, the territory of Ephraim and Manasseh, all the land of Judah as far as the western sea, the Negev and the whole region from the Valley of Jericho, the City of Palms, as far as Zoar. Then the Lord said to him, "This is the land I promised on oath to Abraham, Isaac and Jacob when I said, 'I will give it to your descendants.' I have let you see it with your eyes, but you will not cross over into it."

And Moses the servant of the Lord died there in Moab, as the Lord had said. He buried him in Moab, in the valley opposite Beth Peor, but to this day no one knows where his grave is. Moses was a hundred and twenty years old when he died, yet his eyes were not weak nor his strength gone. The Israelites grieved for Moses in the plains of Moab thirty days, until the time of weeping and mourning was over.

--Deuteronomy 34:1-8

Situated 6 miles NW of Madaba, and just north of the Dead Sea; Mt. Nebo provides a panorama of the Holy Land with visibility to the West Bank city of Jericho, as well as, Jerusalem on a clear day. Revered as one of the most important Christian sites in Jordan, Mt. Nebo is where Moses was shown a glimpse of the Holy Land—the end location of his exodus from Egypt with the Israelites. But, in accordance with God's plan, Moses died there in Moab and never stepped foot into the Promised Land.

A map of the views from Mt. Nebo depicting various cities and landmarks including the Dead Sea, Bethlehem, Jerusalem, and Jericho.

A close-up of a portion of the Promised Land across the border in Israel.

A modern sculpture of Moses' staff, by Giovanni Fantoni, symbolic of the bronze snake he created in the wilderness (Numbers 21:4-9) in combination with Jesus' cross (John 3:14).

Madaba's Mosaics

2009-12-21T13:15:00.000-06:00

Madaba (Medeba), an ancient city in Jordan, is located 20 miles southwest of Amman. A former Moabite border city, the Bible mentions Madaba in Numbers and Joshua.

But we have overthrown them; Heshbon is destroyed all the way to Dibon. We have demolished them as far as Norphah, which extends to Medeba (Numbers 21:30).

It extended from Aroer on the rim of the Arnon Gorge, and from the town in the middle of the gorge, and included the whole plateau of Medeba as far as Dibon (Joshua 13:9).

Because of the large number of Byzantine mosaics uncovered in the area, Madaba is known as the "City of Mosaics." The first mosaics, discovered by accident, were understood to be of great importance by the priests at the time; and under their urgings, Madaba's new inhabitants made sure to preserve all future mosaics.

In 1896, the most famous discovery was made when the Madaba map, a 6th century mosaic map of the Holy Land, was uncovered. Situated in the floor of the Greek Orthodox Basillica of St. George, the mosaic map once contained two million pieces of colored stone and depicted hills, valleys, villages, and towns in Palestine and the Egyptian Nile Delta. Originally 51 ft. x 19.5 ft., the map's current remains are 34.5 ft. x 16.5 ft. with a still impressive 750,000 colored stones remaining. Despite its patchy remnants, the Madaba map is still revered for being the oldest map of the Holy Land still in existence.

Greek Orthodox Basilica of St. George

Everyone gathered around the Madaba mosaic floor map.

The mosaic map is located on the floor to the left in the picture, surrounded by chains.

The Dead Sea is at the top, right corner with the location of Jesus' baptism in the Jordan River coming off of it to the left. Jerusalem, surrounded by city walls, is depicted below the Dead Sea.

Close-up of Jerusalem

Close-up of the Dead Sea and Bethany-beyond-the Jordan.

Marhaba Jordan, Hello Jordan!

2009-12-20T21:09:00.005-06:00

Touching down in Jordan, I was eager to immerse into a new culture. Having lived and traveled throughout Southeast Asia for a year, I gained a taste and understanding for the various countries and their unique cultures, but I was itching to try something different. Admittedly ignorant about several aspects of life in the Middle East, I knew the best way to learn was through experience and one month in three different countries promised to provide many diverse learning opportunities, not to mention the chance to see my friends after our year-long interlude.

After an emotionally exciting reunion, I began firing off the questions that were dancing through my mind while Kacy did her best to explain bits and pieces of what she has learned after her first year of living abroad.

What I learned in the first hour:

1. The men and women we saw on our flight to Kuwait were probably Palestinian because of the men's white robes and white or black/white checkered scarves. The black and white scarves are typical of Palestinian men while Jordanian men usually wear red and white.

2. We should not communicate in any way with men we do not know in public: talking, staring, smiling, etc. It is considered inappropriate in their culture and may be interpreted far differently than is our intention.

3. In general, Jordanians are fond of Americans, which makes it a safe country for us to visit.

4. There are "two" types of people in Jordan: Muslims and Christians. If a woman is not wearing a head-covering she is either a Christian or a very wealthy Muslim. We did not have to cover our heads.

5. People do not use headlights because they waste the car battery.

6. Most dishes include chicken, lamb, or beef. Muslims do not eat pork and we shouldn't advertise our love for bacon.

7. The "Call to Prayer" happens 5 times each day and is loudly projected from each mosque... There are many mosques.

A Few Hours in Kuwait

2009-12-20T15:24:00.010-06:00

After leaving Thailand we headed to Jordan on Kuwait Airways, along with the Kuwait men's ice hockey team.... yep, ice hockey.... who knew? Our first step in the Middle East was on the tarmac of the Kuwait Airport where we stopped for a short layover. It was evident we were no longer in the lush tropics of Southeast Asia as shades of brown stretched across the horizon.

Inside the airport, I realized my ignorance of the culture. Smile or don't smile? Eye contact isn't appropriate here, right? Who can I talk to? Men in long white robes and matching head scarves swelled the crowd while women floated in and out wearing western clothes or floor-length black robes. Although their presence was expected, I felt compelled to stare and drink in the new culture until it became second nature to me. But, I figured staring is inappropriate in any culture and I'd rather not make a poor first impression so I reduced my curious staring to covert glances.

Traditional Arab dress